Sleeves

How to Sew Sleeves


Step-by-Step Instructions:

Inserting sleeves into a garment can be a bit tricky, but with careful preparation and attention to detail, you can achieve a professional result.

Materials Needed:
  • Garment bodice
  • Sleeve pieces
  • Sewing machine
  • Thread
  • Pins
  • Scissors
  • Iron
Tips for Sewing Sleeves:
  • Ease Stitching: If your fabric is difficult to gather, consider using a third row of basting stitches.
  • Pressing: Use a tailor’s ham to press the sleeve cap for a smooth, rounded finish.
  • Seam Allowance: Be consistent with your seam allowance to ensure both sleeves are inserted evenly.
1. Prepare the Sleeve and Bodice
  • Sew the side seams of your bodice and the underarm seam of your sleeve.
  • Press the seams open with an iron.
2. Mark the Sleeve and Bodice
  • Identify and mark the notches on the sleeve cap and the armhole of the bodice. These notches indicate the front, back, and center points, as well as the points where the sleeve matches the bodice.
  • Mark the shoulder seam on the bodice and the top center of the sleeve cap.
3. Ease the Sleeve Cap
  • Set your sewing machine to a long basting stitch.
  • Sew two rows of basting stitches along the sleeve cap between the front and back notches, one row 1/4 inch from the edge and the other 1/2 inch from the edge.
  • Leave long thread tails at both ends.
4. Gather the Sleeve Cap
  • Gently pull the bobbin threads to gather the sleeve cap slightly. This will help ease the sleeve into the armhole.
  • Distribute the gathers evenly between the notches. The goal is to match the length of the sleeve cap to the armhole without puckering.
5. Pin the Sleeve to the Bodice
  • Turn the bodice inside out and leave the sleeve right side out.
  • Insert the sleeve into the armhole, aligning the right sides together.
  • Match and pin the notches on the sleeve cap to the corresponding notches on the bodice.
  • Pin the shoulder seam to the top center of the sleeve cap.
  • Pin the underarm seams together.
  • Distribute the remaining ease evenly and pin generously around the armhole.
6. Sew the Sleeve to the Bodice
  • With the sleeve side up, sew around the armhole using the regular stitch length, following the seam allowance specified by your pattern (usually 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch).
  • Sew slowly, adjusting the gathers as you go to avoid puckers.
  • Remove the pins as you sew.
7. Finish the Seam
  • Finish the raw edges of the seam allowance with a zigzag stitch, serger, or pinking shears to prevent fraying.
  • Press the seam allowance toward the sleeve.

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