How to Sew a Faggoting Stitch
(Decorative Joining for Heirloom Finishes)
@ProfessorPincushion
@EvelynWood
@HandiWorks
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Faggoting is a beautiful decorative stitch used to join two finished edges together while leaving a visible gap, often seen in heirloom sewing and vintage-style garments.
Materials Needed:
- Two pieces of fabric with finished/hemmed edges
- Contrast or matching embroidery thread/floss
- Hand sewing needle (crewel or embroidery)
- Fabric stabilizer or heavy paper (to maintain the gap)
- Fabric marking pen or chalk
- Small embroidery scissors
Tips for Perfect Stitches:
- Use a stabilizer or baste your fabric to paper to keep the gap perfectly even as you stitch.
- Keep your tension consistent; pulling too tight will pucker the fabric edges.
- Work from left to right or top to bottom depending on your comfort.
1. Prepare the Fabric Edges
- Press and finish the edges of the two fabric pieces you wish to join. A narrow hem or rolled hem works best for this technique.
2. Secure to a Temporary Base
- Baste the two finished edges onto a piece of stiff paper or stabilizer, leaving a gap (usually 1/8″ to 1/4″ wide) between them.
3. Begin the First Stitch
- Bring your needle up through the underside of the left fabric edge. Cross over to the right fabric and insert the needle from the top down.
4. Create the Interlocked Pattern
- Loop the thread back to the left side, slightly below your first entry point. Pass the needle under the previous diagonal thread to create the “twist” characteristic of faggoting.
5. Continue and Remove Base
- Repeat the pattern down the length of the seam. Once complete, carefully remove the basting stitches and the paper base to reveal the decorative join.
Top FAQs for Faggoting Stitch:
Can faggoting be done on a sewing machine?
Yes! Many modern machines have a built-in bridging or faggoting stitch. Use a specialized faggoting foot for the best results to keep the edges separated correctly.
What is the best thread to use?
For heirloom projects, use a 50wt or 80wt cotton thread. For a more pronounced decorative look, use embroidery floss or perle cotton.
Does faggoting work on stretchy fabrics?
It is traditionally used on stable wovens like linen or lawn. If using on knits, you must use a strong wash-away stabilizer to prevent the gap from stretching out of shape.
Is faggoting purely decorative?
While it provides a decorative heirloom finish, it is a functional seam. However, it should not be used on areas of high stress, like tight side seams.
