Sewing Sashiko Stitches
(Traditional Japanese Visible Mending & Embroidery)
@HandiWorks
@TheGreenWrapper
@XiaoXiaoYarn
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Sashiko is a form of decorative reinforcement stitching (visible mending) originating from Japan. It uses a simple running stitch to create beautiful geometric patterns while making fabric stronger and warmer.
Materials Needed:
- Sashiko needle (long with a large eye)
- Sashiko thread (heavy, matte cotton)
- Fabric (denim, linen, or non-stretch cotton)
- Washable marking pen or chalk
- Sashiko thimble (palm thimble)
Tips for Success:
- Sashiko thread is not meant to be separated like traditional embroidery floss. Use the full strand.
- A traditional sashiko ratio has stitches that are slightly longer on the right side of the fabric than the spaces between them.
- Avoid pulling the thread taut, as the fabric will heavily pucker.
1. Mark Your Pattern
- Use a washable fabric pen, tailor’s chalk, or transfer paper to draw your geometric grid or pattern directly onto the right side of the fabric.
2. Load the Needle
- Unlike traditional western sewing where you push and pull the needle one stitch at a time, sashiko involves weaving multiple stitches onto the long needle before pulling the thread through. Pleat the fabric onto the needle in an even running stitch motion.
3. Push with a Thimble
- If using a traditional sashiko palm thimble, place it at the base of your middle finger. Use the thimble to push the eye of the needle through the bunched fabric, saving your fingers from fatigue.
4. Pull and Smooth
- Pull the needle and thread all the way through. Immediately stretch and smooth the fabric out flat along the stitch line. This step (called shigoku) is critical to prevent puckering.
5. Manage Corners and Intersections
- When turning a corner, leave a small loop of slack thread on the back of the fabric. This ensures the stitches don’t pull too tightly when the fabric is washed and worn. Never cross stitches perfectly over one another in an intersection; leave a small gap where lines meet.
Top FAQs for Sashiko Stitches:
Can I use regular embroidery floss instead of sashiko thread? +
While you can use embroidery floss, it lacks the tightly twisted, matte structure of authentic sashiko thread. Sashiko thread is strong, non-divisible, and sits beautifully on top of heavy fabrics like denim. If you substitute with floss or pearl cotton, do not separate the strands.
Why is my fabric puckering so much? +
Puckering happens when the thread tension is too tight. After pulling a loaded needle through the fabric, you must use your fingers to gently stretch the fabric flat along the seam line. Additionally, ensure you are leaving a tiny loop of slack at every sharp corner.
Do I need a special sashiko needle? +
Yes, it is highly recommended. Sashiko needles are significantly longer and stiffer than standard hand-sewing needles. Their length allows you to “load” many stitches at once, and their strength prevents them from bending when piercing multiple layers of heavy denim or canvas.
