Sewing a Buttonhole by Hand
@NicoleRandolph
@fromcarlyb
@MauriceSedwell
Step-by-Step Instructions:
A hand-worked buttonhole is the pinnacle of fine tailoring and couture sewing. By using a specialized buttonhole stitch, you create a durable, beautiful, raised “purl” edge that sewing machines simply cannot replicate.
Materials Needed:
- Buttonhole twist (heavy silk or topstitching thread)
- Sharp hand-sewing needle
- Beeswax
- Buttonhole chisel or small, sharp scissors
- Gimp cord (optional, for raised buttonholes)
Tips for Success:
- Always practice on a scrap piece of fabric made of the exact same layers and interfacing as your final garment.
- Keep your stitches uniformly deep and spaced perfectly side-by-side for a professional look.
“Unlike a machine buttonhole, hand-worked buttonholes are cut first, and then stitched. Cutting the slit cleanly is half the battle!”
1. Mark and Cut the Slit
- Mark the exact length of your buttonhole. Using a buttonhole chisel (or very sharp, fine-tipped scissors), cleanly cut the slit through all layers of fabric and interfacing.
2. Prep and Overcast
- To prevent the fabric from shifting and fraying while you work, take a regular piece of thread and quickly whipstitch/overcast the raw edges of the slit together. (These temporary stitches will be covered by your final buttonhole stitches).
3. Thread and Wax
- Cut a length of heavy buttonhole twist. Run it through a block of beeswax 2-3 times, then press the thread between a folded piece of paper with a hot iron to melt the wax into the fibers. Thread your needle and hide the knot between the fabric layers at the bottom end of the slit.
4. The Buttonhole Stitch
- Bring the needle up from the back, about 1/8 inch away from the raw edge. Before pulling the needle all the way through, loop the trailing thread under the point of the needle in the direction you are sewing.
5. Form the Purl
- Pull the needle through, pulling the thread firmly up and away from the slit. This creates a tiny knot (called the “purl”) right on the raw edge of the fabric. Repeat this stitch, placing the next one right next to the previous one, working your way around the entire slit.
6. Sew the Bartack
- When you reach the ends of the slit, you can either fan your stitches around the curve (for a keyhole look) or create a straight bartack. To make a bartack, take several long stitches straight across the end of the slit, then whipstitch over those long threads to lock the base of the buttonhole securely.
Top FAQs for Hand-Sewn Buttonholes:
What is the difference between a buttonhole stitch and a blanket stitch? +
While they look similar, a buttonhole stitch loops the thread under the needle to create an extra twist or “purl.” This purl sits directly on the raw edge, creating a hard, durable knot that resists the constant friction of a button passing through it. A blanket stitch lacks this durable knot.
Why do I need to use beeswax? +
Beeswax heavily coats the thread and smooths down any fuzzy fibers. This reduces friction and prevents the thick buttonhole twist from tangling, knotting, or shredding as it is repeatedly pulled through tight layers of fabric.
Do I cut the hole before or after sewing? +
For hand-worked buttonholes, you cut the hole first, and then work the stitches over the raw edge to finish it. This is the opposite of a machine-made buttonhole, where the machine stitches the box first and you slice the opening afterward.
