Frankie Shirt 
Omnigrid Square Ruler Template - 6" x 6" 
Stitch in the Ditch
(The Invisible Method for Securing Seams and Layers)
@Howcast
@Evelynwoods
Step-by-Step Instructions:
“Stitch in the ditch” means sewing a seam exactly on top of a previously sewn seam line. When done correctly, the stitches sink into the crease and become virtually invisible. It is widely used to quilt layers together or to neatly tack down waistbands and bindings in garment making.
Materials Needed:
- Stitch-in-the-Ditch foot (or edge-joining foot)
- Matching thread or clear monofilament thread
- Iron and pressing mat
- Pins or sewing clips
Tips for Success:
- Slightly stretch the fabric apart with your hands as it feeds under the needle to gently open the seam line, letting the thread sink deeply into the ditch.
- Sew slowly! Drifting out of the ditch makes the stitches highly visible.
1. Press the Seams Properly
- For the best ditch, your seams must be pressed to one side (not open). This creates a “mountain” side (the high side with the folded seam allowance underneath) and a “valley” or “ditch” side (the low, flat side).
2. Choose the Right Foot
- Attach a Stitch-in-the-Ditch foot or an edge-joining foot to your machine. These feet feature a prominent metal blade or guide extending down the center, which acts as a rudder to keep your stitching perfectly straight.
3. Select the Thread
- If you want the stitches to be completely invisible, match the thread color to the fabric on the “mountain” side. Alternatively, use a clear monofilament (invisible) thread on the top spool.
4. Align the Guide
- Place your fabric under the presser foot. Align the center metal blade of the foot directly inside the “ditch” (the low side of the seam). The blade should ride snugly right up against the “mountain” fold.
5. Sew the Seam
- Set your needle position so it drops precisely into the crease of the ditch. Begin sewing slowly. Keep your eyes entirely on the metal blade of the foot, ensuring it stays firmly nestled against the folded mountain. Let the machine feed the fabric, and use your fingertips to gently pull the fabric slightly taut from side to side to keep the ditch open.
Top FAQs for Stitching in the Ditch:
What does “Stitch in the Ditch” actually mean? +
Stitching in the ditch is a technique where you sew directly into the crevice (the “ditch”) of a previously sewn and pressed seam. The goal is to hide your new stitching completely inside that groove so it secures layers without being visible on the front of the project.
Should my seams be pressed open or to one side? +
They must be pressed to one side! Pressing to one side creates the physical height difference (the mountain and the valley) needed for the thread to hide. If you stitch in the ditch on an open seam, your needle will just poke through the weak piecing threads instead of solid fabric.
What thread color should I use? +
Always match your thread to the “mountain” side of the fabric (the side that the seam allowance is pressed towards), as the fold will cast a slight shadow over the thread. If your fabrics are vastly different colors, use clear monofilament (invisible) thread on the top spool.
Do I need a special presser foot for this? +
While you can use a standard zigzag foot, a specialized “Stitch in the Ditch” or “Edge Joining” foot makes the technique infinitely easier. These feet have a prominent metal blade that rides inside the seam like a rudder, keeping your needle perfectly aligned.
Why are my stitches showing on top of the fabric? +
If your stitches are highly visible, you are likely drifting out of the ditch and accidentally sewing over the folded “mountain.” Slow down your machine’s speed, use a guide foot, and use your fingers to gently spread the fabric open to expose the deepest part of the seam.
Is this technique only used for quilting? +
Not at all! While it is a staple in machine quilting to anchor layers together, garment sewists use it frequently. It is the cleanest way to catch the underside of a waistband, secure neck facings, or finish bias binding on armholes without visible topstitching.
