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How to Sew a Double-Fold Hem
@Howcast
@Crafty Creature
@LoveCrafts
Step-by-Step Instructions:
The double-fold hem is one of the most common and professional ways to finish the edge of a garment or home decor item. By folding the fabric twice, the raw edge is completely enclosed, ensuring it will never fray in the wash.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric piece ready to be hemmed
- Iron and pressing mat
- Sewing gauge or ruler
- Pins or sewing clips
- Sewing machine and thread
Tips for Success:
- The iron is your best friend for this technique! A crisp fold makes sewing perfectly straight lines incredibly easy.
- If your fabric is thick (like denim), you may want to grade the seams before folding the hem to reduce lumpy bulk.
1. Determine the Hem Allowance
- Decide how deep you want your final hem to be, and add the initial fold amount to find your total hem allowance. For example, if you want a 1-inch final hem with a 1/2-inch first fold, you need a total of 1.5 inches of extra fabric at the bottom.
2. Press the First Fold
- Fold the raw edge up toward the wrong side of the fabric by 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch (depending on your preference). Use a sewing gauge to ensure accuracy along the entire length, and press firmly with an iron to set the crease.
3. Press the Second Fold
- Fold the edge up a second time to your desired final hem depth (e.g., 1 inch). This completely hides the raw edge inside the fold. Press the fabric again to lock the new crease in place.
4. Pin or Clip
- Secure the folded hem in place using sewing pins or clips. Place them perpendicular to the edge so they are easy to remove right before they reach your sewing machine needle.
5. Stitch the Hem
- Take the fabric to your sewing machine. Sew a straight line close to the inner folded edge (about 1/8 inch away from the fold) to secure it down. Sewing close to the inner edge prevents the hem from flipping open during wear or washing.
6. Final Press
- Give the finished hem one last firm press with the iron and steam. This flattens the stitches into the fabric, removes any slight puckering, and creates a crisp, professional finish.
Top FAQs for the Double-Fold Hem:
What is a double-fold hem used for? +
It is the standard finish for the bottom of woven shirts, pants, skirts, curtains, napkins, and more. Because it folds the fabric twice, the raw edge is completely trapped inside the hem, permanently preventing it from fraying.
How much fabric do I need to add to my pattern for a double-fold hem? +
You need to combine the measurement of the first fold and the second fold. If you want a hem that looks 1 inch deep from the inside, and you do a 1/2 inch initial fold to hide the raw edge, you must add 1.5 inches to the bottom of your pattern piece.
Do I have to iron the hem before sewing? +
Yes! Pressing the folds with an iron is the most important step. Trying to fold, pin, and sew simultaneously without ironing usually results in a twisted, uneven, or wavy hemline.
Can I use a double-fold hem on curved edges? +
It is very difficult on steep curves (like circle skirts) because the wider outer edge doesn’t fit smoothly into the narrower inner fold. If you must use a double-fold hem on a curve, make it a very narrow “baby hem” (1/4 inch fold, 1/4 inch fold) to minimize puckering.
What stitch length should I use for hemming? +
A slightly longer stitch length, around 2.5mm to 3.0mm, looks much more professional for topstitching and hemming. It also helps prevent the fabric from puckering under the tension of the thread.
My hem is twisting and puckering. What did I do wrong? +
This twisted look is known as “roping.” It often happens if you pull or push the fabric as it feeds through the machine, or if the folds weren’t pressed accurately. Using a walking foot can help feed the layers evenly and prevent roping.
