How to Finish Seams
@PatternScout
@EnchantedRoseCostumes
@DowntownTailoring
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to finish seams like a pro with these beginner-friendly techniques that prevent fraying and give your handmade garments a polished, long-lasting look.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Sewing machine
- Iron and ironing board
- Thread matching your fabric
- Pinking shears (optional)
- Overlocker/serger (optional)
- Seam binding or bias tape (optional)
- Press cloth (optional for delicate fabrics)
Tips for Perfect Perfect Seams
- Always press your seams open or to the side before finishing—this sets your stitches and improves accuracy.
- Test your chosen seam finish on a fabric scrap to see how it behaves.
- Choose your seam finish based on your fabric type and the stress level of the seam.
- Lightweight fabrics like cotton lawn may benefit from French seams, while heavy-duty fabrics like denim do best with serging or flat-felled seams.
1. Pinking Shears Finish
- Sew your seam as usual and press it open or to the side.
- Trim the raw edges with pinking shears to reduce fraying.
- For extra durability, you can topstitch close to the pinked edge.
2. Zigzag Stitch Finish
- Sew the seam and press it open or to one side.
- Set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch (width 3-5, length 1-2).
- Zigzag along the raw edge of the seam allowance.
- Trim any excess fabric close to the stitching, being careful not to cut the seam.
3. Overlock (Serger) Finish
- Sew the seam on your sewing machine or serger.
- Use a 3- or 4-thread overlock stitch to clean the raw edges.
- Press the seam either open or to one side depending on the pattern instructions.
- If using a serger as your main seam stitch, you may not need to use a straight stitch first unless added strength is needed.
4. French Seam (Great for Lightweight Fabrics)
- With wrong sides together, sew a narrow seam (¼”).
- Trim the seam allowance down to about 1⁄8″.
- Press the seam to one side, then fold the fabric right sides together, enclosing the raw edge.
- Sew a second seam (⅜”) along the fold. Press to finish—your raw edge is now hidden!
5. Bound Seam Finish (Great for Unlined Garments)
- Sew the seam and press it open.
- Cut bias binding to match the length of the seam allowance.
- Encase each raw edge in the bias tape and sew it closed.
- Press for a crisp, polished look—this finish is often used in high-end garments.
