How to Hem
@ThoughtfulCreativity
@MaiArdour
@theamandaperna
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to finish seams like a pro with these beginner-friendly techniques that prevent fraying and give your handmade garments a polished, long-lasting look.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Sewing pins or clips
- Measuring tape or hem gauge
- Iron and ironing board
- Thread matching your fabric
- Sewing machine (or hand sewing needle for invisible hems)
- Seam ripper (optional)
- Tailor’s chalk or washable fabric marker
Tips for Perfect a Perfect Hems:
- Always try the garment on before hemming to confirm the correct finished length.
- Pressing is key—press your folds and seams at every step for the sharpest results.
- Use a longer stitch length (around 3.0) for topstitched hems to reduce puckering.
- Lightweight fabrics often need narrower hems, while heavier fabrics look better with deeper ones.
- Test your hem finish on a fabric scrap to make sure the stitches don’t show through or distort the shape.
1. Mark Your Hemline
- Try the garment on and stand straight, using a mirror or helper to mark your desired hemline.
- Use tailor’s chalk or a fabric-safe marking tool to draw the hemline clearly.
Remove the garment and lay it flat on your workspace.
2. Trim Excess Fabric
- Measure from the raw edge to the hemline and mark a cutting line, adding seam allowance (typically 1″ for a double-fold hem).
- Carefully cut off any excess fabric using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter.
3. Press the First Fold
- Fold the raw edge up by ½” (or your desired seam allowance) to the wrong side of the fabric.
- Press the fold flat using steam and a press cloth for delicate fabrics.
Pin or clip the fold in place as you go.
4. Press the Second Fold
- Fold the hem up again by another ½” so the raw edge is fully enclosed.
Press the second fold and pin or clip it securely in place. - Ensure the hem lies flat and smooth, adjusting pins as needed.
5. Stitch the Hem
- Sew close to the upper fold, keeping your stitches straight and even.
Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the seam. - For a more invisible look, use a blind hem stitch on your machine or hem by hand with a slip stitch.
6. Final Press
- Give your hem a final press from the right side using light steam to set the stitches and remove any puckers.
- If hemming curved edges (like circle skirts), use easing techniques or narrow hems to prevent rippling.
