Bias
@ProfessorPincushion
@SeamworkVideo
@MimiGStyleshow
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Working on the bias allows fabric to drape beautifully and conform to curves, making it an essential technique for garment construction and advanced sewing results.
Materials Needed:
- Woven fabric (lightweight to medium-weight is ideal for practice)
- Rotary cutter or sharp fabric scissors
- Quilter’s ruler or clear grid ruler
- Tailor’s chalk or washable fabric marker
- Cutting mat (if using rotary cutter)
- Pins or fabric clips
- Sewing machine with straight stitch
- Steam iron and ironing board
Tips Before You Begin:
- Always staystitch curved or bias edges immediately after cutting to prevent stretching.
- Handle bias-cut pieces gently—avoid pulling or distorting the fabric as you sew or press.
- Use a pressing motion with steam (not dragging) to set seams without warping them.
- Let bias-cut garments hang for 24 hours before hemming to allow the fabric to settle.
1. Understand What Bias Means
- The bias of fabric refers to the 45-degree angle between the lengthwise grain (parallel to the selvage) and the crosswise grain (perpendicular to the selvage).
- Fabric cut on the true bias has the most stretch and flexibility.
2. Prepare and Align Your Fabric
- Lay your fabric flat on a cutting surface, aligning the selvage edges.
- Fold one corner of the fabric to form a triangle, aligning the crosswise and lengthwise grain.
- This fold reveals the true bias along the fold line.
3. Mark and Cut on the Bias
- Use a quilter’s ruler and tailor’s chalk to mark your pattern pieces along the 45-degree angle.
- Ensure the pattern’s grainline is aligned exactly along the bias direction.
- Cut carefully using a rotary cutter or sharp scissors to maintain clean, accurate edges.
4. Stabilize Bias-Cut Edges
- Staystitch immediately inside the seam allowance on all bias-cut edges to prevent distortion.
- Use a short straight stitch (e.g., 2.0mm) and stitch from the outer edge toward the center to minimize shifting.
5. Pin and Sew Bias Seams with Care
- Use plenty of pins or clips to hold bias edges together evenly.
- Sew slowly with a straight stitch, using gentle tension to avoid stretching.
Avoid backstitching at the beginning/end of seams—instead, tie off threads to minimize puckering.
6. Press Seams Correctly
- Use a steam iron to press the seams without sliding the iron.
- Press open or to one side as your pattern dictates, using a pressing cloth if needed to avoid shine.
7. Let Bias Garments Rest Before Hemming
- Bias-cut fabrics may grow or shift after construction—hang garments for 24 hours before final hemming.
- Level the hem with a ruler or hem gauge to ensure even length all around.
