Catch Stitch
(Herringbone Stitch)
@SimplicityVideo
@MadetoSew
@vanheurtenouterwear
Step-by-Step Instructions:
The catch stitch (herringbone stitch) is a versatile hand-sewing technique perfect for hemming and securing linings while allowing flexibility and creating a nearly invisible finish on the outside of the garment.
Materials Needed:
- Needle (preferably a fine hand-sewing needle)
- Thread (matching the garment color or contrasting for practice)
- Scissors
- Thimble (optional, for hand protection)
- Fabric piece with a folded hem or lining edge
- Pins or clips
Tips Before You Begin:
- Use a single strand of thread and knot the end for best control and a flatter finish.
- Mark a guide line with chalk or a disappearing pen to keep stitches even.
- Practice on scrap fabric to get comfortable with stitch spacing and angle.
- The stitch should form a criss-cross or X pattern on the inside of the garment and be barely visible on the outside.
1. Prepare the Hem or Lining
- Fold your hem or lining edge up to the desired length and press it flat.
- Pin in place to prevent shifting while stitching.
2. Start Your Thread
- Thread your needle and tie a small knot at the end.
- Bring the needle up from the inside edge of the hem fold, hiding the knot inside the fold.
3. Begin the First Stitch
- Move the needle left (not right as in most stitches).
- Take a small stitch in the main garment fabric, just catching 1–2 threads.
- This stitch should be placed above the hem fold.
4. Cross Back to the Hem
- Move diagonally down and to the right to take a small stitch in the hem fold.
- Repeat this back-and-forth motion, forming a series of crossed stitches.
5. Continue Stitching Across the Hem
- Keep each stitch the same size and evenly spaced (about ¼” apart).
- Ensure the top stitches in the main garment are very small and subtle.
6. Finish the Stitch Line
- When you reach the end of the hem, tie a small knot inside the fold.
- Pass the needle through the fold a short distance and trim the thread to hide the tail.
