Clean-Finished Seams
(turning under seam allowances)
@MeghanGraceDIY
@forestthread535
@ThreadsSewing
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to sew clean-finished seams to give your garments a polished, high-end interior using this classic technique that’s ideal for lightweight fabrics.
Materials Needed:
- Woven fabric (light to medium weight)
- Sewing machine
- Matching polyester or cotton thread
- Iron and ironing board
- Seam gauge or ruler
- Fabric shears or rotary cutter
- Pins or fabric clips
Tips Before You Begin:
- Use this technique primarily on lightweight fabrics like cotton lawn, voile, or silk to avoid bulk.
- Pre-press your seam allowances before sewing for more control.
- Always test your finish on a fabric scrap first to ensure the look and function work for your project.
- Press each step carefully for the crispiest, most professional results.
1. Prepare and Sew the Seam
- Align your fabric pieces with right sides together.
- Pin or clip in place along the seamline.
- Sew the seam using your pattern’s recommended seam allowance (typically ⅝” or 1.5 cm).
- Press the seam open using a steam iron for crisp, flat seams.
2. Turn Under the Seam Allowance Edges
- Working on one side of the seam allowance at a time, fold the raw edge of the seam allowance under by about ⅛” to ¼” (3 to 6 mm), wrong sides together.
- Press the fold flat using steam for a sharp crease.
- Repeat this process on the other side of the seam allowance.
3. Stitch the Turned Edges
- Topstitch the folded edge down close to the fold (about 1/16″ or 2 mm from the edge) to encase the raw edge and prevent fraying.
- Repeat for the other seam allowance.
- Press the seam open one final time to set the stitches and give it a clean, crisp finish.
