Heirloom lace Insertion
@closetcorepatterns
@thesewingsociety
@BuriedDiamond
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Heirloom lace insertion is a timeless technique that adds luxury and charm to garments and heirloom sewing projects—perfect for blouses, christening gowns, and vintage-style linens.
Materials Needed:
- Lightweight fabric (cotton batiste, voile, lawn, or silk)
- Insertion lace (with straight, non-scalloped edges)
- Fine thread (cotton or polyester to match fabric/lace)
- Universal or Microtex needle (size 60/8 or 70/10)
- Water-soluble fabric marker or tailor’s chalk
- Fine pins or clips
- Small, sharp scissors or thread snips
- Sewing machine
- Optional: Starch for stabilizing fabric
Tips Before You Begin:
- Always pre-wash lace and fabric to prevent shrinkage and ensure colorfastness.
- Choose laces with straight edges for easier alignment and clean seams.
- Stabilize lightweight fabrics with spray starch or a tear-away stabilizer if needed.
- Use a fine needle and thread to avoid puckering or damaging the fabric.
- Practice on fabric scraps before working on your final project.
1. Prepare Your Fabric and Lace
- Wash, dry, and press your fabric and lace to eliminate shrinkage.
- Lightly starch the fabric for better control if it’s very soft or slippery.
- Mark the placement of the lace on the right side of the fabric using a water-soluble marker or chalk.
2. Pin and Sew the Lace in Place
- Place the lace right side up over the marked line on the right side of the fabric.
- Align one edge of the lace with the marked line.
- Pin the lace in place or use clips to prevent shifting.
- Stitch close to the lace edge using a straight stitch, about 1⁄8” (3mm) from the edge.
- Repeat on the opposite edge of the lace, ensuring it lays flat and even.
3. Cut and Trim the Fabric Behind the Lace
- Turn your fabric to the wrong side.
- Carefully cut along the center of the area under the lace, between the two stitch lines.
- Trim away the seam allowance, leaving about 1⁄4” (6mm) on each side of the lace seam.
4. Press and Sew the Seam Allowances
- Press the seam allowances away from the lace.
- On the right side of the fabric, topstitch close to the folded edge of the fabric on both sides of the lace to encase raw edges.
- This will create a clean finish with the lace appearing “inserted” into the fabric.
5. Final Pressing
- Give your work a final gentle press with a warm iron.
- Use a pressing cloth to avoid scorching delicate lace or fabric.
