Inseam (Side Seam) Pockets
@StitchedUp
@ThoughtfulCreativity
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Follow these steps and you’ll add smooth, functional inseam pockets that blend seamlessly into any garment, elevating both utility and professional finish.
Materials Needed:
- Fashion fabric pieces with side seams unsewn
- Pocket bag pattern (two mirror-image pieces per pocket)
- Pocket lining fabric (same or lightweight cotton)
- Coordinating thread
- Sewing machine and standard presser foot
- Pins or fabric clips
- Fabric marking pen or chalk
- Iron and ironing board
- Scissors or rotary cutter
Tips Before You Begin:
- Interface pocket openings on very light or stretchy fabrics to prevent distortion.
- Press each step thoroughly; crisp folds help the pocket disappear into the seam.
- Align notches carefully—mismatched pocket bags cause twisting or pulling.
- Grade pocket-bag seam allowances to reduce bulk at hips.
1. Mark Pocket Placement
- With right sides together, align front and back garment pieces at the side seam.
- Mark the pocket opening length (usually 6–7 in / 15–18 cm) starting 1–1½ in below the waist or as your pattern indicates.
2. Attach Pocket Bags to Garment Pieces
- Place one pocket piece, right sides together, with the front garment edge, matching notches and pocket curve.
- Stitch along the pocket curve only, using a ⅜ in (1 cm) seam allowance.
Press seam allowances toward the pocket. - Repeat for the corresponding back garment piece.
3. Understitch for a Clean Edge
- On each pocket piece, understitch seam allowances to the pocket lining 1 / 8 in (3 mm) from the seam.
- This keeps the pocket bag from rolling to the garment’s outside.
4. Assemble Pocket Bags
- With garment pieces right sides together, align side seams and pocket edges.
- Pin around the pocket bag and down the side seam, ensuring pocket openings remain free of pins.
- Stitch the pocket curve first, pivoting at the side-seam edges.
- Continue sewing the side seam above and below the pocket opening in one continuous line, back-stitching at each pocket end for strength.
5. Grade and Press
- Trim pocket-bag seam allowances to ¼ in; leave garment seam at ⅜ in to reduce ridges.
- Clip into the corner where pocket meets side seam for a flat turn.
- Press pocket bags toward the front; press side seams toward the back.
6. Secure Pocket Tops (Optional)
- From the right side, top-stitch a short bartack at the upper pocket opening to keep lining anchored during wear.
