Godets
@ProfessorPincushion
@FabricvilleTV
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Mastering how to insert godets gives your garments elegant volume and graceful movement while elevating your sewing skills to the next level.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric for the garment and matching or contrasting godet inserts
- Matching thread
- Sewing machine with straight and zigzag stitch functions
- Fabric shears or rotary cutter
- Pins or fabric clips
- Seam gauge or ruler
- Pressing tools (iron, tailor’s ham, pressing cloth)
- Optional: fusible interfacing (for delicate or loosely woven godet fabrics)
Tips Before You Begin:
- Choose a lightweight or medium-weight fabric for godets that drape and flow well
- Use a pressing ham to help shape curved seams smoothly
- Mark the insertion point clearly and clip precisely to the pivot point for clean finishes
- Finish raw edges with a serger, zigzag stitch, or pinking shears for durability
- Practice inserting one godet on a fabric scrap to test seam accuracy and finishing
1. Prepare the Godet Pattern Piece
- Draft or trace the godet piece from your pattern; it’s usually a triangle or wedge shape.
- Add seam allowances to all sides unless already included in your pattern.
Cut the godet piece on the grain or bias depending on desired drape and stretch. - Finish raw edges now if working with fraying fabric.
2. Mark and Prepare the Insertion Point
- On the main garment piece, mark the slit or opening where the godet will be inserted.
- Clip to the marked point at the tip of the slit, stopping precisely at the seam allowance.
- Staystitch around the slit to prevent distortion while sewing
3. Pin the Godet into the Opening
- With right sides together, match one side of the godet to one side of the slit.
- Pin from the bottom up to the pivot point, easing fabric as needed.
- Repeat with the second side of the godet and the opposite side of the slit.
4. Sew One Side of the Godet
- Start at the hem and sew up to the pivot point using a straight stitch and standard seam allowance.
- Backstitch at the end, just before the pivot point.
5. Sew the Other Side
- Repeat the process for the second seam of the godet, again stitching from hem to pivot point.
- Ensure the stitching meets at the tip for a clean, even point.
6. Clip and Press the Seams
- Clip the tip of the godet seam allowance if needed to reduce bulk
- Press seams open or toward the godet, depending on fabric weight and desired finish
- Use a pressing ham for a smooth, shaped finish on curved or narrow godets
7. Finish the Hem and Topstitch (Optional)
- Hem the bottom edge of the godet if it’s separate from the garment hem.
- Optional: topstitch along each seam for decorative detail or added durability.
