Patch Pockets
@folkwearsewingpatterns
@SeamworkVideo
Step-by-Step Instructions:
With just a few basic tools and this step-by-step guide, you’ll confidently master how to sew patch pockets that enhance both the function and style of your handmade garments.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric for the pocket (match or contrast your garment)
- Matching or contrasting thread
- Fabric shears or rotary cutter
- Ruler or seam gauge
- Pins or fabric clips
- Fabric marking tool (chalk, disappearing ink pen, etc.)
- Iron and pressing tools (pressing cloth, tailor’s ham optional)
- Optional: fusible interfacing for structure
Tips Before You Begin:
- Use interfacing to stabilize lightweight or stretchy fabrics before attaching the pocket.
- Press all edges before stitching to ensure sharp, clean lines.
- Edge stitch or topstitch close to the folded edge for a professional finish.
- Reinforce the top corners with bar tacks or small triangles for durability.
- Align pockets precisely by using tailor’s chalk or templates to mark placement.
1. Cut the Pocket Fabric
- Cut the pocket piece according to your pattern or desired dimensions, adding seam allowances on all sides.
- Optional: cut and apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side for extra stability.
2. Mark and Prepare the Fold Edges
- On the wrong side of the pocket piece, mark seam allowances on all four sides.
- Fold the side and bottom seam allowances toward the wrong side and press.
- Fold the top edge down twice (¼” then ¾” or as needed) to form a clean hem, and press again.
3. Stitch the Top Edge
- Stitch across the top folded edge of the pocket to secure the hem.
- Use a straight stitch and edge stitch 1/8″ from the fold for a neat finish.
- Pin one gusset side at a time, pivoting at corners if inserting a diamond gusset.
4. Shape the Pocket Corners (Optional)
- For rounded corners, use a curved template or a small cup to trace and trim curves before folding and pressing.
- Clip or notch curves as needed, then press flat.
5. Place and Pin the Pocket
- Mark the pocket placement on your garment using a fabric-safe marking tool.
- Align the pressed pocket edges with your markings.
- Pin or clip the pocket in place securely.
6. Stitch the Pocket to the Garment
- Begin stitching at one top edge, sewing down the side, across the bottom, and up the other side.
- Use an edge stitch (about 1/8″ from the folded edge).
- Reinforce the top corners with backstitching, a small triangle, or a bar tack for extra strength.
7. Press for a Professional Finish
- Press the pocket flat from the wrong side if possible, or with a pressing cloth to protect fabric.
- Check symmetry and alignment between multiple pockets (if applicable).
