Gussets
@folkwearsewingpatterns
@sistermagpatterns
@BurnleyandTrowbridge
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Gussets are an essential sewing technique for adding ease, mobility, and durability to fitted garments like shirts, pants, or underarm seams, making them a must-know skill for any sewist aiming for professional results.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric for garment and gusset (same or contrast)
- Sewing machine
- Matching thread
- Scissors or rotary cutter
- Pins or fabric clips
- Marking tool (chalk or washable pen)
- Iron and ironing board
- Ruler or seam gauge
- Pattern with gusset marking or gusset template
Tips Before You Begin:
- Cut gussets on the bias when possible for added stretch and mobility.
- Use lightweight or medium-weight woven fabrics that match the garment fabric type.
- Press seams at every step for clean, flat construction.
- Reinforce stress points (like underarms) with a small backstitch or bar tack.
- Test gusset insertion on scrap fabric if you’re new to the technique.
1. Prepare the Gusset Piece
- Cut out the gusset based on your pattern or draft a square or diamond (commonly 2″–4″ wide) with seam allowance included.
- If drafting your own, add ¼” to â…œ” seam allowance on all sides.
- Mark the center and corners of the gusset with a washable fabric pen.
2. Prepare the Gusset Opening on the Garment
- On the garment piece, clip or mark the gusset opening (such as an underarm seam or side seam intersection).
- Staystitch around the gusset opening if the fabric is prone to fraying or stretching.
- Clip into the corners of the gusset opening up to—but not through—the staystitching.
3. Align and Pin the Gusset
- With right sides together, align one edge of the gusset to one side of the gusset opening.
- Match the corner of the gusset to the clip point of the garment seam.
- Pin one gusset side at a time, pivoting at corners if inserting a diamond gusset.
4. Sew the Gusset In Place
- Stitch the first gusset side with a short stitch length, starting and stopping precisely at the clip point.
- Pivot the fabric carefully at each corner if the gusset has four sides.
- Repeat for the other sides, ensuring no puckering or pleating occurs at the corners.
5. Press and Finish Seams
- Trim seam allowances to reduce bulk if needed.
- Press seams open or toward the gusset, using a tailor’s ham for curved areas.
- Finish raw edges with a serger, zigzag stitch, or bias binding if the fabric frays easily
