1. Cut Bias Strips

• Determine the width of your bias strip: for a 1/4 in finished tube, cut strips 1 in wide; for 1/8 in tubes, cut 3/4 in wide (adjust based on fabric weight and desired final diameter).
• Fold your fabric at a 45-degree angle to the selvage to find the true bias.
• Use a quilting ruler and rotary cutter to cut strips along the bias grain.
• If you need a longer tube, piece bias strips together: place two strips right sides together at a 90-degree angle, stitch diagonally across the intersection, trim to 1/4 in, and press open.

2. Prepare the Strip

• Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press lightly to establish a center crease.
• Open the strip and optionally mark a stitching line down the center with chalk or disappearing marker (this guide helps keep narrow seams consistent).

3. Stitch the Tube

• Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, aligning raw edges precisely.
• Pin or clip along the length.
• Set your machine to a short stitch length (1.5–2 mm) and use a universal or microtex needle for fine fabrics.
• Stitch a narrow seam allowance—typically 1/8 in to 1/4 in depending on your strip width—keeping the seam straight and even.
• Backstitch at the beginning; at the end, leave thread tails long (6–8 in) if using the thread-pull turning method.
• Trim one seam allowance slightly narrower than the other (grade) to reduce bulk.

4. Turn the Tube (Method A – Loop Turner Tool)

• Insert the wire or hook end of your loop turner into one end of the tube.
• Push the turner through the entire length until the hook emerges from the opposite end.
• Catch the fabric at the entry end onto the hook or latch.
• Gently pull the turner back through, easing the fabric tube right side out as you go.
• Work slowly and avoid pulling too hard, especially with delicate or lightweight fabrics.
• Once turned, use a blunt tool (like a chopstick or knitting needle) to gently push out the seam from inside if needed.

5. Turn the Tube (Method B – Safety Pin or Bobby Pin)

• Attach a small safety pin or bobby pin to one end of the tube (at the seam allowance, not the folded edge).
• Work the pin back through the inside of the tube, bunching fabric as you push.
• Continue until the pin emerges from the opposite end, turning the tube right side out.
• Remove the pin and gently pull the tube to smooth and straighten.

6. Turn the Tube (Method C – Thread Pull)

• Before stitching, insert a double strand of strong thread or thin cord through the tube and catch it in the starting seam stitches.
• After stitching the tube, trim seam allowances close (but not too close).
• Gently pull the secured thread to draw the tube through itself, turning it right side out.
• This method works well for very narrow tubes but requires care to avoid breaking the thread.

7. Press and Prepare the Tube

• Press the turned tube flat with the seam running along one edge (not centered) for a cleaner finish.
• Roll the tube gently between your fingers to settle the seam and shape the tube evenly.
• Measure the button diameter and add 1/2 in to 3/4 in extra length per loop for seam allowance and ease.
• Mark and cut individual loops from the tube using fabric scissors—cut cleanly and at right angles.

8. Attach Button Loops to Garment (Sandwiched Method)

• Mark button loop placement on the garment edge using your pattern markings or by measuring evenly.
• Fold each loop in half to form a teardrop or “U” shape.
• Pin or baste loops to the right side of the garment edge, aligning raw edges with the garment raw edge and pointing the loop inward (toward the garment body).
• Space loops evenly and ensure all loops extend the same distance from the edge.
• Place your garment facing (or lining piece) right sides together over the loops, sandwiching them between the two layers.
• Stitch along the seam line, securing the loops in the seam.
• Trim, grade, and clip seam allowances; press seam open or toward the facing.
• Turn the facing to the inside; press the finished edge with loops extending outward.
• Understitch or edgestitch the facing to keep it flat and the loops crisp.

9. Attach Button Loops (Exposed/Topstitched Method)

• Position loops on the finished garment edge, spacing evenly.
• Fold raw ends of each loop under or overlap them slightly; pin in place.
• Topstitch a small square or rectangle over the loop base to secure, backstitching for strength.
• Alternatively, hand-stitch loops invisibly using a slip stitch or whipstitch for a couture finish.

10. Troubleshooting Common Issues

• Tube won’t turn: Seam allowance may be too wide for the strip width—try a narrower seam or wider strip.
• Fabric tearing during turning: Use a gentler turning tool, shorter stitch length, and avoid forcing; delicate fabrics may need a corded rouleau.
• Loops too tight or too loose: Test loop size with the actual button before cutting all loops; adjust length as needed.
• Loops twisting: Press tubes flat before cutting and ensure raw edges align when pinning to garment.
• Seam visible on outside: Press tube with seam along the edge, not centered, and roll tube gently to hide seam inside.

11. Optional – Corded Rouleau Loops

• Cut a piece of thin cord (crochet cotton, perle cotton, or rattail cord) twice the length of your fabric tube plus several inches.
• Fold the cord in half and place the folded end inside the fabric strip before stitching.
• Stitch the tube, catching the cord in the seam at the starting end but leaving the cord free to move inside.
• After stitching, pull the cord ends to turn the tube right side out around the cord.
• Trim away excess cord at the ends.
• Corded loops are stronger, easier to turn, and hold their shape better than uncorded tubes.