1. Choose Your Placket Style and Cut Pieces

• Decide whether you’re making a one-piece folded placket (easiest for polos and casual shirts) or a two-piece placket (traditional dress shirts).
• For a one-piece placket: Cut a fabric strip 2–3 in wide and the length of your placket opening plus seam allowances (typically 6–10 in long depending on garment design).
• For a two-piece placket: Cut an underlap strip (1.5–2 in wide) and an overlap strip (2–2.5 in wide), both the length of the placket opening plus seam allowances.
• Add 1 in to the top and bottom of each strip for hem and neckline finishing.

2. Apply Interfacing

• Cut interfacing pieces to match the width and length of your placket strips (or follow pattern instructions if using a commercial pattern).
• For woven fabrics: Use lightweight to medium-weight fusible woven interfacing.
• For knit fabrics: Use lightweight knit fusible interfacing or tricot interfacing to preserve stretch.
• Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of each placket piece following manufacturer’s instructions; press firmly with steam and allow to cool completely.

3. Mark the Placket Opening on the Garment Front

• On the garment front (shirt or polo body), mark the center front line from the neckline down the desired placket length (common: 5–8 in for shirts, 6–10 in for polos).
• Mark a stitching box around the center line: draw parallel lines 1/4 in on either side of center, and a horizontal line across the bottom to form a narrow rectangle.
• Mark a V or triangle at the bottom point where the center line meets the horizontal line; this is your clipping guide.

4. One-Piece Placket Method – Attach and Fold

• With right sides together, center the placket strip over the marked stitching box on the garment front.
• Pin or clip in place, ensuring the strip extends evenly above the neckline and below the placket opening.
• Stitch around the marked rectangle using a short stitch length (1.5–2 mm) for strength; pivot carefully at corners and taper to a point at the bottom V.
• Carefully clip down the center line, stopping 1/8 in from the bottom point, then clip diagonally into each corner of the V without cutting the stitching.
• Pull the placket strip through the opening to the wrong side; press the seam allowances toward the placket strip.
• Fold the placket strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, encasing the raw edge; press.
• From the right side, the placket should lie flat with the fold creating a clean edge; pin or clip the folded edge just beyond the stitching line.
• Edgestitch or topstitch along the folded edge from the right side, securing all layers and stitching close to the edge (1/8 in).
• Topstitch a second line 1/4–3/8 in from the first for a professional finish (optional but recommended).

5. Two-Piece Placket Method – Underlap First

• Place the underlap strip right sides together with the garment front, aligning the long raw edge with one side of the marked stitching box (the button side).
• Stitch along the marked line from neckline to the bottom point, using a short stitch length.
• Clip diagonally to the bottom point without cutting stitching.
• Press the seam allowance toward the underlap strip; understitch close to the seam on the underlap side to keep it from rolling.
• Fold the underlap strip to the wrong side, encasing the raw edge, and press flat.
• From the wrong side, stitch in the ditch (in the seam) or topstitch from the right side 1/8–1/4 in from the seam to secure the underlap.

6. Two-Piece Placket Method – Overlap Second

• Place the overlap strip right sides together with the opposite side of the placket opening (the buttonhole side).
• Stitch along the marked line, pivoting at the bottom point to meet the underlap stitching; clip to the point.
• Press the seam allowance toward the overlap strip and understitch.
• Fold the overlap strip over the seam, encasing the raw edge, and press.
• The overlap should cover the underlap by 1/2–3/4 in when the placket is closed; pin in place.
• Topstitch two parallel lines on the overlap from the right side: one close to the folded edge (1/8 in) and one 1/4–3/8 in away, creating a classic double-stitched placket finish.

7. Finish the Placket Ends

• At the neckline: Trim any excess placket fabric even with the neckline seam allowance; the neckband or collar will encase the raw edge.
• At the bottom of the placket: If using a one-piece method, fold and tack the bottom edges neatly; for two-piece, the overlap may be topstitched across the bottom in a small triangle or bar tack for reinforcement.
• Press the entire placket flat, ensuring all edges are crisp and topstitching is smooth.

8. Mark and Sew Buttonholes

• On the overlap (buttonhole side), mark buttonhole placement using a ruler and fabric marker; space buttonholes evenly (typically 2.5–3.5 in apart for shirts, closer for polos).
• Position the top buttonhole 1/2–3/4 in below the neckline seam; position the bottom buttonhole 1/2–1 in above the placket bottom point.
• Mark the buttonhole length: button diameter plus thickness plus 1/8 in (e.g., 5/8 in button = 5/8 + 1/8 = 3/4 in buttonhole).
• Attach your buttonhole foot and adjust settings for buttonhole length and stitch density (test on scrap first).
• Sew each buttonhole, starting at the end closest to the placket edge; most machines sew forward, bar tack, reverse, and bar tack again automatically.
• Use a buttonhole chisel or seam ripper to carefully open each buttonhole between the rows of stitching, placing a pin across the bar tack to prevent cutting through.

9. Mark and Sew Buttons

• Try on the garment or pin the placket closed to determine exact button placement on the underlap.
• Mark button positions directly opposite the center of each buttonhole.
• Hand-sew each button securely using doubled thread; for flat buttons, create a thread shank by wrapping thread under the button several times before knotting off.
• For sew-through buttons on thick fabric, use a toothpick or matchstick between button and fabric while sewing to build in ease; remove before wrapping the shank.
• Knot thread on the wrong side or make several tiny backstitches to secure.

10. Final Press and Inspection

• Press the completed placket from the wrong side first, then from the right side with a pressing cloth if needed to avoid shine.
• Check that all topstitching is straight, buttonholes open cleanly, and buttons are secure.
• Try on the garment to confirm buttonholes and buttons align perfectly and the placket lies flat without gaping.

11. Troubleshooting Common Issues

• Placket ripples or puckers: Interfacing may be too heavy or not fused properly; ensure fabric and interfacing are compatible and press thoroughly.
• Buttonholes tunnel or stretch on knits: Use stabilizer under buttonholes and reduce stitch density slightly; test on scrap.
• Buttons pull or gap: Buttonholes may be too small; check button size and remake buttonholes if necessary, or reposition buttons closer to the edge.
• Topstitching is uneven: Use an edge foot or guide; sew slowly and watch the fabric edge, not the needle.
• Placket twists or doesn’t lie flat: Check grain direction on placket strips; press each fold immediately after stitching and understitch seam allowances.