How to Sew Mitered Corners
@Sewing and the City
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to sew mitered corners to create sharp, professional 45-degree angles on hems, borders, bindings, and home décor projects—perfect for beginners and advanced sewists seeking clean, polished finishes on napkins, tablecloths, quilts, and garment hems.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric pieces requiring mitered corners (napkins, tablecloths, quilt borders, garment hems, or bindings)
- Sewing machine and matching thread
- Iron and pressing surface
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Quilting ruler or clear gridded ruler
- Fabric marking tool (chalk, frixion pen, or washable marker)
- Pins or clips
- Seam gauge or measuring tape
- Optional: Point turner or chopstick for sharp corners
- Optional: Fabric glue stick or Wonder Tape for precision basting
Tips for Perfect Mitered Corners:
- Press as you go: Crisp pressing at each step is the key to sharp, accurate miters—never skip pressing.
- Mark the diagonal accurately: Use a ruler to draw the exact 45-degree diagonal line from the inner fold intersection to the outer corner point.
- Consistent seam allowances: Keep hem widths and fold measurements identical on both edges meeting at the corner for symmetrical miters.
- Trim before turning: Trimming the corner point and excess bulk after stitching prevents lumpy, thick corners.
- Test on scrap first: Practice the technique on scrap fabric with the same weight and hem width to build confidence.
- Use a point turner carefully: Gently push out the corner from the inside without poking through the fabric.
- Match fabric grain: Align grainlines on both edges meeting at the corner to prevent puckering or twisting.
1. Prepare Your Fabric Edges
- Determine your finished hem or border width (common widths: 1/4 in, 1/2 in, 1 in, or 2 in depending on project).
- Press under the raw edge on both sides meeting at the corner by the hem width measurement.
- Press under again by the same measurement to create a double-fold hem (or single fold if working with bindings or finished edges).
- Unfold the fabric completely so you can see the pressed crease lines.
2. Mark the Miter Diagonal
- Refold each edge once (first fold only) so the two creases meet at the corner, forming an L-shape.
- Lay the fabric wrong side up with the corner toward you.
- Identify where the two inner fold lines intersect at the corner—this is your starting point.
- Using a ruler and marking tool, draw a diagonal line from the intersection point to the outer corner point at a 45-degree angle.
- The diagonal line should bisect the corner square perfectly.
3. Stitch the Miter
- Fold the fabric right sides together along the diagonal line you just marked, aligning the pressed creases on both edges precisely.
- Pin or clip in place to secure.
- Stitch directly on the marked diagonal line from the inner intersection to the outer corner point, backstitching at both ends.
- Use a standard stitch length (2.0–2.5 mm).
4. Trim and Grade the Corner
- Trim the seam allowance to approximately 1/4 in from the stitching line.
- Clip the corner point at a diagonal, removing excess bulk but staying about 1/8 in away from the stitching to prevent fraying.
- If working with thick fabric, grade the seam allowances by trimming one layer slightly narrower than the other to reduce bulk.
5. Press the Miter Seam
- Press the miter seam open using the tip of your iron to set the stitches and flatten the allowances.
- Work carefully to avoid stretching the bias edge.
6. Turn and Shape the Corner
- Turn the corner right side out, gently pulling the fabric through.
- Use a point turner, chopstick, or blunt tool to carefully push out the corner point from the inside—work gently to avoid poking through.
- Press the mitered corner flat, aligning the folded edges perfectly along both sides.
7. Complete the Hem
- Refold the hem along the original pressed creases to encase the raw edges.
- Pin or clip the hem in place around the entire project, paying special attention to the mitered corners.
- Edgestitch or topstitch the hem close to the inner folded edge (typically 1/8 in from the fold), pivoting at each mitered corner.
- Backstitch at the beginning and end, or lock stitches.
8. Press the Finished Corner
- Give the completed mitered corner a final press from both the right and wrong sides.
- Use steam if appropriate for your fabric to set the miter crisply.
- Admire your sharp, professional 45-degree corner.
9. Troubleshooting Common Issues
- Corner not sharp: Ensure you trimmed close enough to the stitching and used a point turner; re-press with steam.
- Puckered miter: Check that both hem widths are identical and fabric edges were aligned precisely before stitching.
- Lumpy corner: Trim more bulk from the seam allowance and corner point; grade if necessary.
- Diagonal line off-angle: Use a quilting ruler to mark an exact 45-degree angle from the fold intersection to the outer point.
- Raw edges showing: Ensure the second fold fully encases the first fold and raw edge; adjust fold widths if needed.
More Sewing Techniques!
Top FAQs for this technique:
A mitered corner is a 45-degree angled seam where two hems or borders meet at a corner, creating a neat, professional diagonal fold with no bulk or raw edges visible.
No special tools are required—just a ruler, marking tool, iron, and sewing machine. A point turner helps achieve sharper corners but is optional.
Yes, but trim and grade seam allowances more aggressively to reduce bulk, and press thoroughly at every step for crisp results.
A regular hem corner simply folds fabric at a 90-degree angle, creating bulk. A mitered corner joins the two edges at a 45-degree diagonal, eliminating bulk and creating a clean, tailored finish.



