1. Calculate and Cut Your Straps

• Determine finished strap width (common: 1/4 in to 3/8 in for spaghetti straps).
• Calculate cutting width: finished width × 4 plus 1/4 in (for 1/4 in finished: cut 1 1/4 in wide).
• Measure desired strap length plus 2–3 in for seam allowances and adjustments.
• For bias straps: Mark 45-degree angle on fabric using a quilting ruler; cut strips along bias grain.
• For straight grain: Align with lengthwise grain for less stretch.
• Cut two strips for a garment or four if making crossed-back straps.

2. Prepare the Strips

• With wrong side up, fold one long edge to meet the center of the strip.
• Fold the opposite edge to slightly overlap the first fold (creating an offset fold).
• Press the folds carefully with iron to create a crisp guideline.
• Alternative: Fold strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and press.

3. Sew the Tube

• If using offset fold: Refold strip with right sides together along the pressed line.
• Stitch along the open edge using a narrow seam allowance (1/8 in to 3/16 in).
• Start stitching with a backstitch or lockstitch to secure.
• For very thin straps: Use a shorter stitch length (2.0–2.2mm) for strength.
• Keep seam allowance consistent by using a seam guide or edge of presser foot.
• At the end, leave thread tails long (6–8 in) for the turning process if using thread method.

4. Trim and Grade the Seam

• Trim seam allowance very close to stitching (1/16 in) using sharp scissors.
• Be careful not to cut through stitching line.
• For thicker fabrics: Grade the seam by trimming one layer slightly shorter than the other.
• Press seam to one side while tube is still wrong side out.

5. Turn the Strap Right Side Out

• Method A – Loop Turner: Insert turner through tube, catch the end, and pull back through.
• Method B – Safety Pin: Attach large safety pin to one end, work it through tube by scrunching fabric.
• Method C – Thread and Needle: Thread needle with strong thread, secure to one end, and pull through.
• Method D – Straw Method: Insert drinking straw into tube, tuck end fabric into straw, and pull straw out opposite end.
• Work slowly to avoid tearing, especially at the starting point.
• Once turned, gently work seam to one edge by rolling between fingers.

6. Press the Straps

• Lay strap flat with seam along one edge (not twisted to front or back).
• Press carefully with iron, using steam for crisp edges.
• For consistent width: Pin strap to ironing board at both ends while pressing.
• Optional: Edgestitch along both long edges for a professional finish and to prevent rolling.

7. Attach Straps to Garment

• Try on garment or use a dress form to determine strap placement.
• Mark attachment points with pins or fabric marker.
• Pin straps to inside of garment with 1/2–3/4 in overlap.
• Basic attachment: Stitch across strap width, pivot, stitch down side, across bottom, and up other side (rectangular box).
• Reinforced attachment: After stitching rectangle, add an X through the center for extra strength.
• For adjustable straps: Attach rings and sliders following hardware instructions.

8. Finishing Options

• Hidden attachment: Attach straps between lining and facing for invisible stitching.
• Decorative attachment: Attach to outside and add decorative topstitching, buttons, or bows.
• Convertible straps: Create loops or buttonholes for removable straps.
• Crossed back: Attach straps straight at front, crossed at back for racerback style.