Bound Buttonhole
@LAMODÉLISTE
@gwenheng
@SewEssential
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Master the timeless technique of sewing bound buttonholes to elevate your tailored garments with a clean, durable, and high-end finish.
Materials Needed:
- Fashion fabric (preferably medium to heavyweight like wool or suiting)
- Matching thread
- Lightweight interfacing (fusible or sew-in)
- Small sharp scissors or seam ripper
- Ruler or seam gauge
- Chalk or fabric marking pen
- Iron and ironing board
- Needle (for hand finishing, if desired)
- Extra scrap fabric for practice
Tips Before You Begin:
- Always practice on a scrap of your garment fabric to fine-tune your technique before working on your actual piece.
- Use interfacing to stabilize the buttonhole area and prevent distortion.
- Mark carefully and double-check your placement before cutting—accuracy is key for symmetrical results.
- Consider basting the welt pieces in place before stitching for added control.
1. Prepare the Buttonhole Placement
- Determine where your buttonholes will be on the garment and mark their placement using chalk or a fabric marker
- Mark both the buttonhole length and the lips (usually ¼” above and below the centerline for a ½” wide finished opening).
2. Apply Interfacing
- Fuse or sew a piece of interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric in the area where each buttonhole will go.
- Ensure the interfacing extends at least 1″ around all sides of the marked buttonhole to support the fabric.
3. Cut the Welt Fabric
- Cut two strips of fabric for each buttonhole, typically about 1½” wide and 2″ longer than the buttonhole itself.
- Press the strips in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
4. Stitch the Welts
- Align the folded edges of the strips along the marked buttonhole centerline, with raw edges facing outward.
- Stitch a box (usually â…›” above and below the centerline) around the marked buttonhole through all layers, forming a narrow rectangle.
5. Cut the Buttonhole Opening
- Carefully cut down the center of the rectangle and into the corners, creating a Y-shape at each end.
- Be precise—clip right to the corners without snipping the stitching.
6. Turn and Press
- Pull the welt strips through to the wrong side of the fabric.
- Press everything flat so the welts form a neat rectangular opening on the right side.
7. Secure the Corners
- From the wrong side, fold back the small triangular flaps and stitch them down by hand or machine to secure the buttonhole ends.
8. Finish the Buttonhole on the Facing
- Mark and repeat the buttonhole slit on the facing.
- Open the slit and hand-stitch the opening around the bound buttonhole edges for a clean interior finish.
