Buttonhole Stitch Applique

Buttonhole Stitch Applique

Buttonhole Stitch Applique


Step-by-Step Instructions:

Learn how to sew buttonhole stitch applique to create bold, decorative fabric shapes with hand-embroidered edges—perfect for beginners and advanced sewists seeking traditional folk-art finishes, durable raw-edge applique, and beautiful heirloom embellishment on quilts, garments, and home décor.

Materials Needed:
  1. Base fabric (cotton, linen, wool felt, or denim)
  2. Applique fabric (cotton, felt, wool, or fusible-backed cotton scraps)
  3. Embroidery floss or perle cotton (size 5, 8, or 12 depending on desired stitch prominence)
  4. Embroidery needle (sharp or crewel needle, size 5–9)
  5. Fabric scissors or applique scissors with fine tips
  6. Template material (card stock, template plastic, or freezer paper)
  7. Fabric marking tool (water-soluble pen, chalk pencil, or heat-erasable pen)
  8. Lightweight fusible web (e.g., Heat’n Bond Lite, Steam-A-Seam Lite) for raw-edge applique
  9. Pins or fabric glue stick for temporary hold
  10. Embroidery hoop (4–8 in diameter) for stability
  11. Iron and pressing surface
  12. Optional: Thimble for hand protection
  13. Optional: Light box or window for tracing designs
Tips for Perfect Buttonhole Stitch Applique:
  • Fuse first for raw edges: Use lightweight fusible web to anchor applique shapes before stitching; it prevents shifting and fraying during embroidery.
  • Choose contrast thread: Perle cotton or 2–3 strands of embroidery floss in a contrasting color makes the buttonhole stitch pop and defines the shape.
  • Stitch density matters: Space stitches close together (1/16–1/8 in apart) for durable edges; wider spacing creates a lacier, decorative look.
  • Keep tension even: Pull each stitch snug enough to loop over the raw edge without puckering the base fabric.
  • Anchor in a hoop: Use an embroidery hoop to keep fabric taut and stitches uniform; re-hoop as you move around the shape.
  • Start at a curve or corner: Begin stitching at an inconspicuous spot like a curve or inner corner so the starting knot is hidden.
  • Stitch direction consistency: Always work in the same direction (clockwise or counterclockwise) around the shape for even stitch slant.
  • Test stitch length on scrap: Practice on a fabric scrap to find the stitch length and spacing that suits your design scale.
  • Press finished work face-down: Protect dimensional stitches by pressing the back of the work on a towel or padded surface..
1. Select and Prepare Your Design
  • Choose or draw a simple applique shape (hearts, flowers, leaves, circles, folk-art motifs work well for beginners).
  • Trace the design onto template material (card stock or template plastic) and cut out the template precisely.
  • For fusible applique, trace the mirror image of the design onto the paper side of fusible web if the shape is directional.
  • Note: Buttonhole stitch is ideal for shapes with gentle curves and minimal tight interior corners.
2. Cut and Fuse Applique Shapes
  • If using fusible web, follow manufacturer instructions to fuse the web to the wrong side of your applique fabric.
  • Place the template on the right side of the fused fabric (or directly on fabric if not using fusible) and trace around it with a marking tool.
  • Cut out the shape precisely on the drawn line using sharp fabric scissors or small applique scissors.
  • Peel off the paper backing if using fusible web.
  • Position the applique shape right side up on the right side of the base fabric; press to fuse in place, or pin or baste if not using fusible.
3. Secure Fabric in Embroidery Hoop
  • Place the base fabric with fused applique in an embroidery hoop, centering the shape.
  • Tighten the hoop so the fabric is drum-tight and smooth; this prevents puckering and makes stitching easier.
  • If the shape is large, you may need to re-hoop as you work around the perimeter.
4. Thread Your Needle
  • Cut an 18–24 in length of embroidery floss or perle cotton (longer lengths tangle; shorter lengths require frequent rethreading).
  • For embroidery floss, separate the strands and use 2–3 strands for a medium-weight stitch, or all 6 strands for bold definition.
  • Thread the needle and knot one end with a simple overhand knot or quilter’s knot.
5. Anchor the Thread
  • Bring the needle up from the back of the base fabric just outside the raw edge of the applique shape at your starting point.
  • Take a tiny anchoring stitch or two in the base fabric near the edge to secure the knot invisibly.
  • Alternatively, start with the knot on the back and plan to cover the thread tail with subsequent stitches.
6. Work the Buttonhole Stitch (Blanket Stitch Variation)
  • Insert the needle down through both the applique and base fabric about 1/8 in (or your chosen stitch length) inside the raw edge of the applique.
  • Bring the needle back up through the base fabric just outside the raw edge, directly below the entry point, creating a straight vertical stitch.
  • Before pulling the thread tight, loop the working thread under the needle tip from left to right.
  • Pull the thread snug so the loop settles along the raw edge of the applique, forming a secure perpendicular bar that encases the edge.
  • Repeat: Insert the needle 1/16–1/8 in to the right of the previous stitch (or left, if working counterclockwise), down through the layers, up outside the edge, loop thread under needle, pull snug.
7. Navigate Curves and Corners
  • On gentle curves: Reduce stitch spacing slightly to keep the edge smooth and the looped bars close together; stitches may fan outward.
  • On inner curves or concave edges: Maintain close spacing so no gaps appear at the raw edge.
  • At outer corners: Work 2–3 stitches into the same outside hole at the corner point to pivot smoothly and create a sharp corner; fan the stitches slightly.
  • At inner corners or V-notches: Work stitches close together at the corner to encase raw edges fully and reinforce the stress point.
8. Complete the Stitch Circuit
  • Continue stitching around the entire perimeter of the applique shape, maintaining even tension and consistent stitch length.
  • When you reach the starting point, overlap 2–3 stitches to secure the ending.
  • To finish, take the needle to the back of the work, make a small anchoring stitch under previous stitches, then weave the thread end through the back of several stitches.
  • Trim the thread tail close to the fabric.
9. Remove From Hoop and Press
  • Remove the fabric from the embroidery hoop carefully to avoid distorting stitches.
  • Place the work face-down on a clean towel or padded ironing surface.
  • Press gently from the back with a warm iron to smooth the base fabric without flattening the dimensional embroidery stitches.
  • If desired, lightly press the front on a low setting, using a pressing cloth.
10. Troubleshooting Common Issues
  • Stitches pulling fabric: Loosen tension slightly; ensure base fabric is taut in the hoop before stitching.
  • Uneven stitch spacing: Use a ruler or mark stitch placement lightly with a marking tool as a guide.
  • Raw edges fraying: Choose tightly woven fabric, fuse thoroughly with web, or apply a thin layer of fabric glue or Fray Check to raw edge before stitching.
  • Thread tangling: Use shorter lengths of thread, let the needle hang periodically to untwist, or wax the thread lightly with beeswax or Thread Heaven.
  • Looped bar not catching edge: Make sure to bring the needle up just outside the raw edge and loop thread under the needle tip every time.

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Top FAQs for this technique:

What is the difference between buttonhole stitch and blanket stitch?

Buttonhole stitch and blanket stitch are nearly identical. Buttonhole stitch typically has denser, closer spacing and a small knot or “purl” at the edge for durability, while blanket stitch may have wider spacing for a decorative look. Both encapsulate raw edges with a looped perpendicular bar.

Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand-stitching buttonhole applique?

Yes. Use a machine buttonhole stitch or blanket stitch setting (often a decorative stitch) to mimic the hand-sewn look. Reduce stitch length and width for precise edge coverage and test on scrap first

How many strands of embroidery floss should I use?

Use 2–3 strands for a delicate to medium-weight stitch, or all 6 strands for bold, prominent stitching. Perle cotton (size 8 or 5) gives a smooth, continuous look without separating strands.

Do I have to use fusible web for buttonhole stitch applique?

No, but fusible web stabilizes raw edges and prevents shifting during stitching. For woven fabrics, you can baste or pin shapes in place; for felt or wool, no fusible is needed as these fabrics don’t fray.


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