Canvas Interfacing
@OFFICIALISOT
@SewWithSally
@OFFICIALISOT
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to use canvas interfacing in traditional tailoring to build a structured garment foundation that enhances fit, shape, and professional polish.
Materials Needed:
- Tailor’s canvas (e.g., hair canvas or hymo)
- Lightweight fusible interfacing (optional for reinforcement)
- Domette (soft interlining, optional)
- Basting thread or silk thread
- Wax for thread (beeswax)
- Sharp hand sewing needles (size 9–11)
- Scissors
- Tailor’s chalk or fabric marking pencil
- Pressing tools (tailor’s ham, clapper, steam iron)
- Garment pieces (jacket front, lapels, etc.)
Tips Before You Begin:
- Tailor’s canvas is usually used in tailored jackets, coats, and suits to create structure and prevent sagging.
- Use basting stitches to allow for flexibility and shaping—machine stitching can restrict the fabric’s drape.
- Always press as you go—steam helps shape the canvas and fashion fabric together.
Wax your thread to prevent tangling and make hand sewing easier. - Cut the canvas with the grain running in the same direction as the garment for better shaping.
1. Prepare the Canvas and Fabric
- Pre-shrink the canvas by steaming it thoroughly or gently soaking and air drying.
- Cut the canvas using your jacket or coat front as a guide, usually from the shoulder to below the bust or hip depending on garment style.
- If using domette, cut it to the same shape as the canvas for softness and added volume.
2. Mark and Align the Canvas
- Use tailor’s chalk to mark darts, roll lines, and seam allowances onto the canvas
- Lay the canvas on the wrong side of your garment front piece, aligning grainlines.
- Pin in place or use temporary spray adhesive if desired.
3. Pad Stitch the Canva
- Begin pad stitching the canvas to the lapel area using short diagonal stitches, curving your stitches to match the lapel roll.
- Use smaller stitches on the roll line and larger ones away from it for natural shaping.
- Continue pad stitching throughout the chest area to keep the canvas firmly attached.
4. Attach Domette (optional)
- Place domette between the canvas and fashion fabric for a soft shoulder or chest area.
- Baste it to the canvas using long running stitches to secure it in place before proceeding.
5. Reinforce Roll Line and Break Line
- Mark the roll line clearly and tape it using stay tape or straight stitching.
This helps create a crisp, permanent lapel fold. - For added structure, tape the break line (where the lapel starts folding back).
6. Secure Canvas to Front Edges
- Use diagonal basting stitches to attach canvas to the seam allowances of the armhole, neckline, and shoulder seams.
- Trim excess canvas to reduce bulk in seam allowances.
7. Press and Shape
- Use a steam iron, tailor’s ham, and clapper to shape the front chest over curves.
- Press gently without flattening the hand-stitched shaping.
