Facing a Front/Back Neckline
(properly finishing neckline edges)
@ProfessorPincushion
@tashacouldmakethat
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Mastering how to face a front or back neckline is key to achieving a smooth, polished edge that lies flat and enhances the overall look of any blouse, dress, or top.
Materials Needed:
- Fashion fabric (for garment)
- Matching or contrast fabric (for the facing)
- Fusible lightweight interfacing (optional for added structure)
- Thread to match your fabric
- Scissors or rotary cutter
- Pins or fabric clips
- Iron and ironing board
- Sewing machine
- Seam gauge or measuring tape
- Tailor’s chalk or fabric marking tool
Tips for Perfect Facing:
- Always pre-shrink both your main and facing fabrics to prevent puckering later.
- Using fusible interfacing on the facing pieces adds stability and helps keep the neckline crisp.
- Mark notches and center front/back points clearly to ensure accurate alignment.
- Understitching is essential to keep the facing from flipping to the outside—don’t skip it.
1. Cut and Prepare the Neckline Facing
- Use the pattern piece provided or trace the neckline edge of your garment and create a facing about 2”–3” deep.
- Cut one front and one back neckline facing piece on the same grain as your garment neckline.
- Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the facing pieces if desired for structure.
2. Sew Shoulder Seams
- With right sides together, sew the shoulder seams of both the main garment and the facing pieces.
- Press seams open to reduce bulk.
3. Finish the Outer Edge of the Facing
- Finish the outer, unstitched edge of the facing using a serger, pinking shears, or by turning it under ¼” and stitching.
- This step prevents fraying and gives a neater inside appearance.
4. Attach Facing to Neckline
- With right sides together, align the neckline facing to the neckline of the garment, matching shoulder seams, notches, and center points.
- Pin or clip evenly around the neckline to distribute any ease.
5. Stitch and Trim
- Sew the neckline seam using the seam allowance specified in your pattern (usually ⅝”).
- Trim the seam allowance down to about ¼” and clip into the curves every ½” to allow for smooth turning.
- Be careful not to cut through the stitches.
6. Understitch the Facing
- Press the seam allowance toward the facing.
- Understitch by sewing a line of stitching on the facing close to the seam line, catching the seam allowance underneath. This helps the facing stay inside and lie flat.
7. Turn and Press
- Turn the facing to the inside of the garment.
- Roll the seam slightly to the inside so it doesn’t show on the outside, and press the neckline flat.
8. Secure the Facing
- To keep the facing from shifting or flipping out, tack it at the shoulder seams or use a few small invisible hand stitches at strategic points.
- Give the neckline a final press for a clean, finished look.
