How to sew a Flat Felled Seam
@NotchesSewing
@SimplicityVideo
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to sew a flat felled seam to create strong, clean, and professional-looking seams ideal for jeans, shirts, and unlined garments.
Materials Needed:
- Two pieces of woven fabric (cotton, denim, or canvas work best)
- Sewing machine
- Thread (match or contrast depending on design)
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Ruler or seam gauge
- Pins or fabric clips
- Iron and pressing surface
- Seam ripper (optional for adjustments)
Tips Before You Begin:
- Choose medium to heavyweight woven fabrics; this seam is too bulky for delicate materials.
- Use a longer stitch length for topstitching (around 3.0–3.5 mm) for a clean finish.
- Press as you go—ironing each fold is essential for a crisp, professional look.
- If using denim or canvas, consider a jeans or topstitching needle for added strength.
- Practice on a scrap first if you’re new to this seam—it involves multiple steps and folds.
1. Place and Sew the First Seam
- Place your fabric pieces wrong sides together (opposite of standard seam construction).
- Pin or clip along the edge to prevent shifting.
- Sew a straight seam using a ⅝” seam allowance.
- Press the seam open to flatten both seam allowances.
2. Trim One Seam Allowance
- Trim one side of the seam allowance down to ¼ inch.
- Be careful not to cut into the other seam allowance or stitching line.
- This creates a step that allows the wider seam allowance to wrap neatly around the trimmed one.
3. Fold and Press the Seam
- Fold the wider seam allowance over the trimmed one.
- Then fold it again, encasing the raw edge.
- Press the folded seam flat toward one side of the garment.
- Pin or clip it in place to keep it secure.
4. Topstitch the Folded Seam
- Topstitch close to the folded edge using a straight stitch.
- Keep your stitching even and parallel to the seam for a polished look.
- Use a topstitching or denim needle if working with heavy fabric.
- Press again after sewing for a flat, crisp finish.
