How to Hem Jeans
@TaleHandmade
@DowntownTailoring
@TailorItYourself
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to hem jeans without losing the original look using easy, durable sewing techniques perfect for beginners to advanced sewists.
Materials Needed:
- Pair of jeans
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Measuring tape or hem gauge
- Tailor’s chalk or washable fabric marker
- Pins or fabric clips
- Sewing machine with a denim needle (size 90/14 or 100/16)
- Heavy-duty or denim thread (preferably in a matching color)
- Iron and pressing cloth
- Seam ripper (optional)
- Ruler or straight edge
Tips for Perfect Belt Loops:
- Use a denim needle to prevent breakage and skipped stitches on thick seams.
- Match your thread color to the existing topstitching for a professional look.
- Always try on the jeans with the shoes you plan to wear before finalizing the new length.
- Press every step to ensure clean lines and accurate measurements.
- Keep the original hem when possible—it preserves the designer finish.
1. Try on and Mark the Desired Length
- Put on the jeans and fold them up to the desired finished length while wearing shoes.
- Mark the fold line with chalk or pins—this is where the jeans will fall once hemmed.
- Take off the jeans and lay them flat on your work surface.
2. Measure and Determine the Hem Allowance
- Measure from the original hem to your new marked fold line.
- Subtract the seam allowance you’ll need (typically ½”) to find the trimming line.
- Mark this trimming line around both legs using a ruler and chalk.
3. Cut or Fold the Jeans
Option A: Keep the Original Hem
- Measure up the same amount on both legs and fold the fabric inside the jeans, aligning the original hem with your new hemline.
- Pin in place and try the jeans on to double-check the length.
Option B: Remove the Original Hem
- Trim the excess fabric at the trimming line, leaving your seam allowance.
- Fold up the raw edge twice (¼” then another ¼”) and press in place for a clean finish.
4. Sew the Hem
Original Hem Method (Folded Technique):
- Using a straight stitch, sew just below the original hemline through all layers.
- This keeps the old hem intact while shortening the pants invisibly.
Clean Double-Fold Method:
- Sew close to the folded edge using a straight stitch, maintaining even spacing.
- Use a walking foot if needed to help feed the thick denim evenly.
5. Press the New Hem
- Press the hem flat with steam, using a pressing cloth to avoid shine marks.
- For a crisp finish, topstitch if needed to match the original design.
- Clip any loose threads and turn the jeans right side out.
