Hong Kong Seam
@PatternScout
@SewDIY
@SimplicityVideo
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Master the Hong Kong seam technique to create a professional, couture-worthy finish that beautifully encases raw edges for garments, jackets, and unlined pieces.
Materials Needed:
- Lightweight bias binding (pre-made or self-made from lightweight cotton or silk)
- Fabric for your main project (medium to heavyweight works best)
- Coordinating thread
- Sharp fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Pins or fabric clips
- Iron and ironing board
- Sewing machine
Tips Before You Begin:
- Use lightweight bias binding to reduce bulk—this helps the seams lay flat.
- Pressing is essential: always press open the seam allowances before applying binding.
- Test on a fabric scrap first to ensure your stitch width and tension are correct.
- If you’re working with curved seams, cut your own bias strips for maximum flexibility.
1. Prepare the Seam
- Cut your fabric pieces and sew the seam as usual, right sides together.
- Press the seam open on the wrong side using your iron.
2. Prepare the Bias Binding
- Cut bias strips 1¼” to 1½” wide if making your own.
- Press the bias strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, to make folding easier during sewing.
3. Attach the Binding to One Seam Allowance Edge
- Align the raw edge of the bias binding with the raw edge of one seam allowance.
- Pin or clip in place along the edge.
- Sew the binding to the seam allowance using a ¼” seam allowance.
4. Wrap and Press the Binding
- Wrap the binding around the raw edge to the underside of the seam allowance.
- Press the folded edge neatly so it just covers the stitching line.
5. Stitch in Place
- Topstitch close to the folded edge to secure the binding.
- Be sure to catch all layers evenly for a clean, finished look.
6. Repeat on the Other Seam Allowance
- Follow the same process for the other side of the seam allowance.
- Once both sides are bound, press the entire seam open again.
