Horsehair Braid Seam
@KoumoriNoHimeCosplay
@MinervaDotCom
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Horsehair braid seam insertion is a favorite technique in formalwear sewing, giving hems elegant shape, volume, and professional drape for garments like gowns, dresses, and skirts.
Materials Needed:
- Lightweight bias binding (pre-made or self-made from lightweight cotton or silk)
- Fabric for your main project (medium to heavyweight works best)
- Coordinating thread
- Sharp fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Pins or fabric clips
- Iron and ironing board
- Sewing machine
Tips Before You Begin:
- Use lightweight bias binding to reduce bulk—this helps the seams lay flat.
- Pressing is essential: always press open the seam allowances before applying binding.
- Test on a fabric scrap first to ensure your stitch width and tension are correct.
- If you’re working with curved seams, cut your own bias strips for maximum flexibility.
1. Prepare Your Hem
- Trim the hem allowance of your garment to an even width—typically 1″ to 1.5″.
- Mark the hemline with a chalk pencil or washable marker for precision.
2. Position the Horsehair Braid
- Lay the horsehair braid flat against the right side of the fabric, aligning one edge of the braid with the raw edge of the hem.
- If your braid has a woven edge, place the softer side toward the garment for comfort and flexibility.
- Pin or clip the braid in place around the full circumference of the hem.
3. Stitch the Braid to the Hem Edge
- Stitch along the top edge of the braid using a straight stitch, about 1/4″ from the edge.
- Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the seam.
- For a clean finish, overlap the braid ends slightly and stitch them down, or fold under one end before overlapping
4. Turn and Press
- Fold the hem up toward the wrong side of the garment so that the braid is fully enclosed inside the fold.
- Press the fold in place with a pressing cloth to avoid scorching or melting synthetic braid.
5. Finish the Hem
- From the inside, topstitch the hem close to the top edge of the horsehair braid, securing it in place.
- Alternatively, use a blind hem stitch or hand-stitch for an invisible finish if the garment is high-end formalwear.
