1. Plan Your Placement

• Decide the trim type and width based on your project’s function and style.
• Determine placement: along hems, yokes, seams, pocket edges, bag panels, or pillow borders.
• Mark guidelines using a ruler and fabric-safe marker; for parallel trims, mark both edges or use the ruler width as a spacer.
• For corners or frames, plan miters at 45 degrees and practice on a scrap.

2. Prep the Trim and Fabric

• Pre-press ribbons and twill tape on low heat; avoid crushing textured braids or pom-poms.
• Seal ribbon ends with Fray Check or a gentle heat seal (test first).
• Lightly stabilize lightweight base fabric with fusible or spray starch if needed.
• Cut trim slightly longer than needed (add 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm) to allow for folding under or tucking into seams.

3. Method A – Apply Flat Trims (Ribbon, Twill Tape, Rickrack, Flat Braid)

• Position the trim along your marked line; avoid stretching.
• Baste in place with wash-away tape, glue stick, or long machine basting stitches.
• For ribbon/tape: Edgestitch both long sides 1–2 mm from the edge; use an edgestitch foot for accuracy.
• For rickrack: Stitch down the center valley, or for a more secure hold, edgestitch both outer waves.
• Keep stitch length around 2.8–3.0 mm; adjust tension if tunneling occurs.
• At ends: Fold under 1/4 in (6 mm) for a clean edge, overlap slightly, or tuck into a seam allowance where possible.

4. Method B – Apply Pom-Pom Trim

• Place the pom-pom tape so poms sit just beyond the finished edge or seam; align the tape with your marked placement.
• Use clips instead of pins to avoid skewing the tape.
• With a zipper foot, stitch along the inner edge of the tape, catching the binding but not the poms.
• For hems or edges: Sandwich the tape between the project and facing/binding with poms facing inward; stitch the seam, then turn so poms peek out.
• For corners: Pause with needle down, pivot carefully; clip into the tape (not the stitching) to ease around tight corners.

5. Method C – Apply Flat Piping (No Inserted Cord)

• Position flat piping so the folded edge becomes your visible “piping.”
• Baste the piping to the right side of the project along the marked line using a zipper foot to sew close to the fold.
• Edgestitch along the folded edge for a clean finish; for double rows, add a parallel stitch line 1/8 in (3 mm) away.
• For frames: Miter corners by folding the piping at 45 degrees; press and edgestitch across the miter.

• Corners (ribbon/tape): Fold a miter at 45 degrees—press the corner fold, align edges, then edgestitch approaching and leaving the corner with a pivot.
• Curves: Ease ribbon by slightly stretching the inner edge and easing the outer edge; steam-shape ribbons if needed.
• For bulky braid on curves, clip the trim tape (not the visible edge) at intervals to help it bend smoothly.

7. Secure, Press, and Finish

• Backstitch at starts/stops in high-stress areas; otherwise, pull thread tails to the wrong side and knot for an invisible finish.
• Press from the wrong side where possible to avoid shine or flattening texture; use a press cloth on delicate trims.
• Trim any loose threads; check that stitching caught both sides of the trim uniformly.

8. Troubleshooting Common Issues

• Wavy ribbon: You’re stretching the trim. Reapply using basting tape and reduce presser foot pressure or use a walking foot.
• Tunneling under ribbon edges: Shorten stitch length slightly, lighten top tension, add stabilizer, or switch to an edgestitch foot.
• Fraying ends: Seal ribbon ends before stitching and fold under; secure with a short zigzag if needed.
• Poms getting caught: Switch to a zipper foot and keep poms clear with a stiletto; slow down at joins.
• Uneven lines: Mark a guide, use an edge guide or quilting ruler, and stitch with consistent reference points.