1. Prepare Your Thread and Needle

• Cut a length of thread approximately 18–24 inches long.
• Thread the needle and pull both thread ends together so you’re working with doubled thread.
• Optional: Run the doubled thread through beeswax for added strength.
• Tie a small knot at the thread ends, or plan to anchor with backstitches.

2. Mark Button Placement

• Try on the garment or close the opening to determine exact button placement.
• Mark the button position on the top layer (usually the overlap side) with a pin or fabric marker.
• For buttonholes already sewn, insert a pin through the center of the buttonhole to mark the corresponding spot on the underlap.
• For buttons without buttonholes, measure and mark evenly spaced positions (common spacing: every 2–3 inches on shirts; closer on baby garments).

3. Sewing a Flat 2-Hole or 4-Hole Button

• Bring the needle up from the wrong side of the fabric at the marked spot.
• Slip the button onto the needle and slide it down to the fabric surface.

• For thick fabrics or layered plackets, place a toothpick or matchstick on top of the button between the holes to create space for a thread shank.
• Pass the needle down through the opposite hole and pull snug (not tight if using a toothpick spacer).
• Bring the needle back up through the first hole and repeat 4–6 times for 2-hole buttons, creating parallel stitches; for 4-hole buttons, stitch in an X pattern or two parallel pairs.
• Remove the toothpick spacer.
• Bring the needle up between the button and fabric (not through a hole).
• Wind the thread tightly around the stitches under the button 3–4 times to create a thread shank.
• Pass the needle to the wrong side and secure with 2–3 small backstitches through the fabric only (not through to the right side).
• Trim thread close to the backstitches.

4. Sewing a Shank Button

• Bring the needle up from the wrong side at the marked spot.
• Slip the button’s shank onto the needle.
• Pass the needle back down through the fabric close to where it emerged (not in the exact same hole).
• Repeat 4–6 times, pulling snug so the shank sits flat against the fabric.
• On the final pass, bring the needle up between the shank and fabric and wind the thread 2–3 times around the base of the shank for extra reinforcement.
• Secure on the wrong side with 2–3 backstitches and trim.

5. Mark Snap Placement

• Snap sets have two parts: the ball half (male) and the socket half (female).
• The ball half is typically sewn to the underlap (underneath layer); the socket half is sewn to the overlap (top layer).
• Close the garment and mark where the snap should sit on both layers using chalk or a pin.
• For already-made openings, insert a pin through the center of the overlap position and mark the underlap.

6. Sewing the Ball Half of the Snap

• Thread and knot your needle with doubled thread.
• Bring the needle up from the wrong side of the underlap fabric at the marked spot.
• Position the ball half of the snap with the ball facing up (toward the outside of the garment).
• Each snap half has 3–4 small holes around the edge.
• Pass the needle down through one hole, pull snug, then bring it back up through the fabric just outside the snap edge.
• Pass the needle down through the same hole again to create a reinforced stitch.
• Repeat 2–3 times per hole, moving around the snap until all holes are secured.
• Finish on the wrong side with 2–3 tiny backstitches between the snap and fabric; trim thread.

7. Sewing the Socket Half of the Snap

• Bring the needle up from the wrong side of the overlap fabric at the marked spot.
• Position the socket half with the socket facing down (toward the inside of the garment so it will receive the ball when closed).
• Stitch through each hole 2–3 times as you did with the ball half, working around the snap.
• Secure on the wrong side with backstitches and trim.

8. Test the Closure

• Close the snap to ensure the ball and socket align and hold firmly.
• Check that the fabric lies flat when snapped and doesn’t pucker.
• If misaligned, carefully remove stitches with a seam ripper and re-mark before re-stitching.

9. Troubleshooting Common Issues

• Button pulls off: Use doubled thread, stitch more passes, or add a backing button on the wrong side for reinforcement.
• Button too tight or fabric puckers: Create a longer thread shank by using a thicker spacer (like two toothpicks) when stitching flat buttons.
• Snap won’t stay closed: Confirm the ball and socket halves are perfectly aligned; increase the number of stitches per hole; or use a larger snap size for heavier fabrics.
• Thread tangles while sewing: Wax your thread before starting and use shorter lengths (18 inches maximum).
• Snap visible on right side: Ensure the socket half is positioned face-down on the overlap so only the flat back shows on the garment exterior.