Keyhole Neckline Finishing
@ProfessorPincushion
@cynthia.a7340
@mysewingtutorial6883
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Mastering keyhole neckline finishing adds a refined, elegant detail to your garments while ensuring the neckline is both functional and stylish.
Materials Needed:
- Fashion fabric with a keyhole neckline cutout
- Matching or contrasting thread
- Facing fabric or bias tape (self-fabric or contrast)
- Fusible interfacing (lightweight)
- Pins or fabric clips
- Fabric marking tool
- Scissors or rotary cutter
- Iron and pressing tools
- Sewing machine
- Optional: hook and eye or button/loop closure
Tips Before You Begin:
- Consider applying lightweight fusible interfacing to your facing pieces to stabilize the neckline and prevent stretching.
- Clip the curves and corners of the keyhole carefully to allow for smooth turning and pressing.
- Use a narrow stitch length for curves to achieve greater control and cleaner results.
- Practice on a scrap piece before sewing the real garment if you’re new to sewing curves or keyholes.
- If using a closure, mark its placement before finishing the neckline for accuracy.
1. Prepare Facing or Bias Binding
- Cut a neckline facing that mirrors the neckline and keyhole opening, including seam allowances.
- Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the facing pieces.
- Finish the outer edge of the facing by serging, pinking, or turning under and stitching.
2. Mark and Staystitch the Neckline
- Use a fabric-safe marking tool to clearly mark the keyhole shape on the right side of the fabric.
- Staystitch around the neckline and keyhole â…›” inside the seam allowance to prevent stretching.
3. Align Facing and Stitch Keyhole
- With right sides together, pin the facing to the neckline and keyhole, aligning notches and center front.
- Stitch all the way around the neckline and keyhole along the marked stitching lines.
- Use a smaller stitch length around curves and at the point of the keyhole.
4. Clip and Trim Seam Allowance
- Carefully clip into the curves and corners of the seam allowance, especially at the tip of the keyhole.
- Trim the seam allowances to reduce bulk, grading if needed.
5. Turn and Press
- Turn the facing to the inside of the garment through the keyhole.
- Gently push out all curves and corners with a turning tool or blunt point.
- Press the neckline and keyhole flat for a crisp, clean edge.
6. Understitch (Optional but Recommended)
- Understitch the facing to the seam allowance close to the neckline edge to prevent it from rolling outward.
- Avoid stitching across the keyhole itself; stop just short of it.
7. Secure the Facing
- Tack the facing to the shoulder seams to hold it in place.
- Optionally, edge stitch or topstitch the neckline for a more defined look.
8. Add Closure (If Needed)
- If your design includes a back closure (like a button and loop), mark placement and attach the closure securely.
- A small loop of elastic or thread can be used for a loop, and a small button or hook-and-eye works well for the fastener.
