Knits and Stretch Fabrics
@CorneliusQuiring
@SeamworkVideo
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Follow this method and you’ll transform tricky knits into high‑quality garments that move with you—no ripples, no skipped stitches, just smooth professional results every time.
Materials Needed:
- Stretch or ballpoint sewing machine needles (sizes 75/11–90/14)
- Polyester or poly‑wrapped thread for flexibility
- 4‑way or 2‑way stretch fabric (jersey, interlock, ponte, rib knit)
- Stretch stitch–capable sewing machine or serger/overlocker
- Walking foot or built‑in dual‑feed foot (optional but helpful)
- Rotary cutter and self‑healing mat (for clean, snag‑free cuts)
- Ballpoint pins or clips
- Lightweight fusible knit stay‑tape or clear elastic for seam stabilization
- Iron with steam and a pressing cloth
Tips Before You Begin:
- Use a stretch or ballpoint needle—universal needles may skip stitches on knits
- Test stitch length and differential feed on scraps; adjust until the seam lies flat without stretching
- Avoid pulling the fabric while sewing; let the feed dogs move it to prevent lettuce‑edge distortion
- Stabilize shoulder seams and necklines with clear elastic or stay‑tape to keep them from growing
- Press with a gentle up‑and‑down motion and low heat; never slide the iron on spandex‑rich fabrics
1. Prepare and Cut Your Knit Fabric
- Pre‑wash and air‑dry fabric to remove shrinkage and excess dye.
Lay fabric flat without stretching; align selvages and fold along the crosswise grain. - Cut pattern pieces with a rotary cutter for smooth edges; transfer notches with tiny clips rather than pins.
2. Select Needle, Thread, and Stitch
- Insert a stretch needle (jersey) or ballpoint needle sized to your fabric weight.
- Thread the machine with polyester thread for durability and give in seams.
- Choose a narrow zigzag (length 2.5 mm, width 1 mm) or lightning‑bolt stretch stitch; set tension to “Auto” or slightly lower.
3. Stabilize Critical Areas
- Fuse ¼ in knit stay‑tape to shoulder seams or cover them with ⅜ in clear elastic.
- Apply the same support to neckline edges and pocket openings to prevent stretching over time.
4. Sew Main Seams
- Place fabric right sides together; pin or clip perpendicular to seam allowance.
- Sew using your chosen stretch stitch, guiding—not pulling—the fabric.
- If using a serger, set differential feed just above 1 for lightweight knits or around 1.5 for very stretchy jerseys.
5. Press Seams and Finish Edges
- Gently press seams flat with a pressing cloth; for serged seams, press to one side and set with steam.
- For a sewing‑machine‑only finish, trim seam allowance to ¼ in and overcast or zigzag raw edges.
6. Hem With Stretch in Mind
- Stabilize hem allowance with ½ in knit fusible tape if fabric is ultra‑stretchy.
- Fold up hem, press, and stitch with a twin needle (4.0 mm spacing) or coverstitch machine for a professional look.
- Stretch the hem slightly as you sew to match garment stretch and avoid popped stitches later.
7. Final Press and Test Stretch
- Give the garment a light, final press without crushing texture.
- Gently stretch seams to ensure they recover and stitches flex—adjust stitch width or length if threads crack.
