How to Sew a Notched Lapel or Collar
@LAMODÉLISTE
@Tailornour
@ateliersaison
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to sew a notched lapel collar with precision and confidence, resulting in a clean, professional finish for dresses, blazers, jackets, and coats.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric for your blazer, jacket, or coat
- Fusible interfacing (medium to heavy weight)
- Matching thread
- Tailor’s chalk or fabric marking pen
- Scissors or rotary cutter
- Pins or fabric clips
- Iron and ironing board
- Point turner or chopstick
- Sewing machine
- Hand-sewing needle
Tips for a Professional Finish
- Use interfacing: Always interface the lapel and collar pieces for structure and durability.
- Mark carefully: Precision is key—mark all notches, seam allowances, and roll lines before sewing.
- Press frequently: Proper pressing at each stage gives your collar a crisp, tailored look.
- Trim and grade seams: Reducing bulk at corners and curves ensures a smooth, professional lapel.
- Understitch where needed: This helps keep the facing in place and prevents it from rolling outward.
1. Cut and Prepare the Collar & Lapel Pieces
- Cut your collar, lapel, and facing pieces as per your pattern.
- Apply fusible interfacing to the upper collar and lapel facings, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Transfer all markings, including the notch points, roll line, and stitching lines, onto the fabric.
2. Sew the Collar Pieces Together
- Place the upper collar and undercollar right sides together and pin along the outer edges.
- Stitch around the sides and top edge, leaving the neckline edge open.
- Trim the seam allowances, clip corners, and grade the layers to reduce bulk.
- Turn the collar right side out and press it flat, ensuring crisp edges.
3. Attach the Collar to the Jacket Neckline
- With right sides together, pin the undercollar to the neckline of the jacket, matching notches.
- Sew the collar to the neckline, ensuring smooth curves and even stitching.
- Clip into the seam allowance at the curves to release tension and allow the collar to lay flat.
4. Construct the Notched Lapel
- Pin the lapel facing to the front of the jacket right sides together.
- Sew along the front edge, pivoting precisely at the notch point to achieve a sharp corner.
- Trim and grade the seam allowances, especially around the notch, to reduce bulk.
- Clip into the notch corner without cutting through the stitches to help the lapel turn properly.
5. Turn, Press, and Understitch (If Needed)
- Turn the lapel and collar right side out and use a point turner to sharpen the corners.
- Press the collar and lapel carefully, rolling the seam slightly to the underside for a polished look.
- Understitch the facing along the seam to keep it from rolling outward.
6. Secure the Collar and Lapel
- Tack the collar to the jacket at the neckline using small hand stitches for added stability.
- Give the entire collar and lapel a final press using steam for a professional, crisp finish.
