1. Choose Your Pattern and Prepare Fabrics

• Select a pattern suitable for reversible construction: simple styles without darts, gathers, or intricate seaming work best (jackets, vests, A-line skirts, kimono robes, tote bags).
• Avoid patterns with set-in sleeves, zippers, or buttonholes unless you plan to adapt them with alternative closures like snaps, ties, or magnetic closures.
• Pre-wash both fabrics and press smooth.
• Cut all pattern pieces from both fabric A and fabric B, marking notches and placement points on the wrong side of each piece.

2. Interface Key Areas

• Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to collar pieces, cuff pieces, front facings, or any areas that need structure on one side only (typically side A).
• Do not double-interface; it creates excessive stiffness in reversible garments.

3. Construct Each Side Separately

• Treat fabric A pieces as the outer garment: sew shoulder seams, side seams, and any construction seams as the pattern directs, leaving the designated opening for turning (often a side seam or part of the bottom hem).
• Press all seams open.
• Repeat the identical construction steps for fabric B pieces, leaving the same opening in the same location.
• You now have two complete “shells” of the garment, each fully sewn except for the turning opening.

4. Join the Two Layers Using the Bagging Method

• Place fabric A and fabric B right sides together, aligning all outer edges (neckline, armholes, hem, front opening edges, etc.).
• Match and pin shoulder seams, side seams, and all notches carefully; the seam allowances of both layers should nest together.
• Stitch around the entire perimeter at your pattern’s seam allowance, leaving only the pre-planned turning opening unstitched.
• Backstitch securely at the start and end of the turning opening.

5. Trim, Clip, and Grade Seam Allowances

• Trim seam allowances to reduce bulk, cutting fabric A seam allowance to 1/4 inch and fabric B to 3/8 inch (grading).
• Clip into curved seam allowances (neckline, armholes) every 1/2 to 3/4 inch, stopping just before the stitching line; notch outward curves.
• Trim diagonally across corners to reduce bulk and allow sharp points when turned.

6. Turn the Garment Right Side Out

• Reach through the turning opening and gently pull one layer through to the right side.
• Use a point turner or chopstick to carefully push out corners and curves from the inside; do not poke through the fabric.
• Work slowly around all edges, coaxing seams to roll to the edge so neither fabric shows from the opposite side.

7. Press and Understitch

• Press all outer edges flat, rolling the seam slightly to the inside so it does not show on either side.
• If accessible, understitch: open the seam allowance away from the garment edge and stitch the seam allowance to the facing or lining layer close to the seamline (this keeps edges crisp and prevents rolling).
• Press again after understitching.

8. Close the Turning Opening

• Fold the seam allowances of the turning opening to the inside along the original seamline; press flat.
• Pin or clip the opening closed.
• Hand sew the opening shut using a ladder stitch or slip stitch so the closure is invisible on both sides.
• Alternatively, if the opening is along a hem or edge that will be topstitched, you can machine stitch it closed during the topstitching step.

9. Topstitch Edges (Optional but Recommended)

• Topstitch around all outer edges 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the edge to secure layers, add a crisp finish, and prevent shifting.
• Use thread that coordinates with both fabrics or choose a contrasting color as a design element visible on both sides.
• Stitch slowly and maintain an even distance from the edge using your machine’s edge guide or a topstitching foot.

10. Add Closures

• Install closures that work on both sides: sew-on snaps, magnetic snaps, hook and eye tape, decorative buttons with thread loops, or ties.
• Avoid traditional buttonholes unless you make bound buttonholes on both sides or use frog closures.
• Position closures so they function regardless of which side is worn outward.

11. Final Pressing and Finishing

• Give the entire garment a final press on both sides, using a press cloth if needed to protect fabric.
• Check all edges for rolling or puckering and re-press or adjust topstitching if necessary.
• Try on the garment from both sides to ensure fit and drape are even.

12. Troubleshooting Common Issues

• One side is longer than the other: Seams may have been sewn at inconsistent allowances; re-measure pattern pieces and check seam accuracy.
• Edges ripple or pucker: Fabrics may have different stretch or one was pulled during sewing; re-press with steam and consider easing the longer side.
• Turning opening is visible: Hand stitch was too loose or opening was not pressed flat first; re-stitch with smaller, tighter slip stitches.
• Bulk at seams: Seam allowances were not graded or trimmed enough; carefully trim closer and press seams flatter with a clapper.
• Corners are not crisp: Points were not trimmed diagonally or were over-stuffed when turning; re-trim excess and turn again gently.