Sleeve Placket
@ProfessorPincushion
@WorkroomSocial•Jennifer👋🏼
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to sew a sleeve placket to create professional openings at sleeve cuffs for shirts, blouses, and dresses, mastering continuous bound, tailored, and tower placket techniques for clean finishes.
Materials Needed:
- Shirt or blouse fabric (cotton, linen, chambray, or shirting)
- Placket fabric strip (self fabric or contrasting)
- Sewing machine and matching thread
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Quilting ruler
- Fabric marking tool (chalk or washable marker)
- Pins or clips
- Iron and pressing surface
- Seam ripper (for precision work)
- Optional: Lightweight fusible interfacing for tailored plackets
- Optional: Edgestitch foot for precise topstitching
- Optional: Fabric glue stick for positioning
Tips for Perfect Sleeve Plackets:
- Accuracy is key: Cut placket strips on grain to prevent stretching and ensure smooth application.
- Press as you go: Pressing each fold and seam creates crisp edges essential for professional plackets.
- Mark precisely: Use templates or careful measuring to mark placket placement identically on both sleeves.
- Reinforce stress points: Bartack or reverse stitch at the top of the placket opening where stress is greatest.
- Test first: Practice on scrap fabric using your actual fabric weight to perfect technique before working on sleeves.
- Mind the overlap: The placket should overlap correctly when closed, with the overlap side facing the back when worn.
- Consistent width: Keep placket binding width consistent throughout for professional appearance.
1. Mark the Placket Opening
- Measure up from the sleeve hem according to pattern instructions (typically 5-7 in for adult shirts).
- Mark the placket opening centered on the sleeve underarm seam or as indicated by pattern.
- For continuous bound plackets, mark a straight line; for tailored plackets, mark a rectangular or keyhole shape.
- Ensure both sleeves are marked identically, checking that one is for left and one for right.
2. Cut and Prepare Placket Strips (Continuous Bound Method)
- Cut a bias or straight grain strip 1.5 in wide and twice the length of the opening plus 1 in.
- Press under 1/4 in along one long edge of the strip.
- For tailored plackets, cut rectangles according to pattern specifications and interface if desired.
3. Cut the Sleeve Opening
- For continuous bound: Cut straight along marked line, stopping 1/4 in before the end.
- Clip diagonally to each side at the top, creating a small triangle (Y-shape).
- For tailored plackets: Cut along marked lines, reinforcing corners with stay stitching first.
4. Attach Continuous Bound Placket – First Side
- Open the sleeve slit completely, spreading fabric flat.
- Place right side of placket strip to wrong side of sleeve, aligning raw edges.
- Pin carefully, easing the sleeve fabric at the top point.
- Stitch using 1/4 in seam allowance, taking care at the point to catch all fabric layers.
- At the top point, the seam allowance will taper to almost nothing.
5. Complete Continuous Bound Placket
- Press seam toward the placket strip.
- Fold the pressed edge of placket over to the right side, enclosing raw edges.
- Pin in place, ensuring the folded edge covers the stitching line.
- Edgestitch close to the folded edge from the right side.
- Press the completed placket, folding it to create the overlap (back portion folds under).
6. Alternative: Attach Tailored Placket
- Prepare two placket pieces: an underlap (shorter) and overlap (longer with point).
- Attach underlap to the front edge of opening with right sides together; press and topstitch.
- Attach overlap to back edge, creating a pointed or rounded tab at top.
- Fold and press overlap to cover underlap when closed.
- Topstitch around all finished edges for crisp, professional finish.
7. Secure the Top of Placket
- With placket folded in wearing position, stitch horizontally across the top at indicated point.
- This can be a straight line, small triangle, or decorative bartack.
- Ensure stitching catches all layers and reinforces the stress point.
- Press final placket position.
8. Attach Cuff
- With placket completed and pressed, proceed to attach sleeve cuff.
- Ensure placket edges align properly within cuff attachment.
- The overlap side should extend slightly beyond the underlap for proper closure.
Top FAQs for this technique:
Continuous bound plackets use one strip of fabric for a softer finish, while tailored plackets use two separate pieces for a more structured, formal appearance.
The placket overlap should face toward the back of the garment when worn, with the overlap on top when the arm is at your side.
Ease the fabric carefully when attaching the binding, use stay stitching for support, and press thoroughly at each step.
Yes, mark a 5-7 inch opening centered on the sleeve underarm seam, then follow standard placket construction methods.