Slit Finishing
@ProfessorPincushion
@named-clothing
Step-by-Step Instructions:
With these steps, your side‑seam or skirt‑vent slit will look crisp, hang smoothly, and stand up to repeated wear: hallmarks of professional sewing craftsmanship.
Materials Needed:
- Garment panel with slit marking unsewn
- Matching thread
- Sewing machine
- Fusible interfacing strip (light‑ to medium‑weight)
- Fabric shears or rotary cutter
- Fabric marking pen or chalk
- Pins or fabric clips
- Iron and pressing cloth
Tips Before You Begin:
- Interface the slit area to prevent distortion, especially on loosely woven fabrics.
- Measure and press folds precisely; crisp edges yield the cleanest finish.
- Backstitch or use a narrow bar tack at the top of the slit to stop threads from pulling.
- If your fabric unravels, overcast raw edges before pressing and stitching.
1. Mark and Stabilize the Slit
- Transfer slit length and top notch from your pattern to the wrong side of the fabric.
- Cut a 1 in (2.5 cm)‑wide strip of fusible interfacing the length of the slit plus 2 in.
- Fuse the strip to the wrong‑side seam allowance centered on the slit marking.
2. Stitch the Seam Above the Slit
- With right sides together, sew the side seam from the armhole or waist down to the top of the slit notch.
- Backstitch securely at the notch, then finish the seam allowances together or separately as desired.
3. Press Seam Allowances Open
- Press the sewn seam open; continue pressing the unsewn seam allowances below the notch open the same width.
- Extend the press line past the hem for a crisp fold.
4. Clean‑Finish Raw Edges
- Overcast or serge each seam allowance edge from the top of the slit down to the hem.
- If you lack a serger, turn under ¼ in (6 mm) of each allowance and edge‑stitch.
5. Fold and Press Slit Edges
- On each side of the slit, turn the finished seam allowance under once more—about ⅜ in (1 cm).
Press sharply, ensuring both sides are even in width.
6. Topstitch the Slit
- Starting at the hem, edge‑stitch up one folded slit edge to 1 in (2.5 cm) above the top notch.
- Pivot, sew a short horizontal bar tack (¼ in), pivot again, and sew down the opposite slit edge to the hem.
- The bar tack reinforces the split and keeps it from ripping higher.
7. Finish the Hem
- Fold and press the garment hem, enclosing the bottom of the slit folds.
- Stitch the hem in place, blending your stitching into the slit’s edge‑stitching for a seamless appearance.
