1. Understanding the Components

• Hair canvas provides structure without stiffness and moves with the fabric while maintaining shape.
• Chest canvas adds firm support to the chest area of jackets and should extend from shoulder to just below the chest line.
• Pad stitching creates permanent shape through diagonal rows of small stitches that lock canvas to fabric.
• Roll line marks where the lapel naturally folds back from the jacket body.

2. Preparing the Canvas

• Cut hair canvas using your pattern’s interfacing pieces or draft your own extending from shoulder to hem and across the chest.
• For full canvassing, cut canvas to cover the entire front minus seam allowances; for partial, end at the chest line.
• Pre-shrink canvas by steaming thoroughly or soaking and air drying.
• Transfer all markings including roll line, breakpoint, and dart positions using tailor’s tacks or chalk.

3. Attaching the Canvas Base

• Position canvas on the wrong side of the jacket front, aligning grain lines and maintaining 1/8 in ease in the canvas.
• Baste canvas to fabric along the roll line first using long running stitches.
• Add horizontal and vertical basting lines to secure canvas flat against fabric without shifting.
• Trim canvas back from all seam allowances by 1/8 in to reduce bulk.

4. Pad Stitching the Lapel

• Begin pad stitching in the lapel area above the roll line.
• Work diagonal rows of small stitches (1/4 in long on canvas side, tiny pick on fabric side).
• Angle stitches perpendicular to the roll line to encourage the lapel to roll naturally.
• Space rows approximately 3/8 in apart for firm control or 1/2 in for softer shaping.
• Work from roll line toward outer edges, keeping consistent stitch size and spacing.
• Avoid catching too much fashion fabric; stitches should be nearly invisible on the right side.

5. Pad Stitching the Body

• Below the roll line, change stitch direction to parallel with the roll line.
• Work rows from center front toward side seams.
• Maintain even tension to keep fabric flat without puckering.
• Continue pad stitching to 2 in above the hem line.

6. Creating the Roll Line

• Steam press along the marked roll line using a pressing cloth.
• Fold lapel back along roll line and steam into position.
• Use a tailor’s ham to support the chest area while shaping.
• Allow to cool and dry completely in rolled position (10-15 minutes minimum).
• The pad stitching will hold this shape permanently once set.

7. Shaping with Steam

• Work over a ham or sleeve board to maintain jacket’s three-dimensional shape.
• Steam and manipulate the canvas-backed fabric to create subtle chest shaping.
• Roll the lapel slightly under at the outer edge for a refined finish.
• Press the breakpoint (where lapel meets collar) crisply using a clapper if desired.

8. Finishing Techniques

• Catch-stitch canvas edges to fabric at armhole and shoulder seams with loose herringbone stitches.
• Tack canvas to any darts or seams it crosses to maintain alignment.
• Grade and trim canvas from hem allowance before hemming.
• Add bridle stays (strips of cotton tape) along the roll line for extra support in heavy fabrics.

9. Troubleshooting Common Issues

• Puckered fabric: Pad stitches too tight; work with looser tension and smaller fabric picks.
• Lapel won’t stay rolled: Insufficient steam setting or pad stitches angled incorrectly.
• Visible stitches: Taking too much fabric with each stitch; pick up only one or two threads.
• Canvas shifting: Inadequate basting; secure thoroughly before pad stitching.