How to Underline Fabric
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Step-by-Step Instructions:
Sewing underlining is a technique used to add structure, support, and durability to your garments. Underlining is different from lining, as it’s sewn directly to the main fabric pieces before the garment is constructed, essentially becoming one with the fabric. It’s especially useful for delicate fabrics, sheer materials, or when you want to prevent stretching or wrinkling. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to sew underlining:
Materials Needed:
- Main fabric
- Underlining fabric (like cotton, silk organza, or another lightweight fabric)
- Thread
- Pins
- Scissors
- Sewing machine
- Iron
Tips for a Professional Finish:
- Test First: Always test the underlining fabric with your main fabric on a scrap piece to see how they behave together.
- Avoid Bulk: Be mindful of the thickness that underlining can add, especially in seams and darts. Trim and grade seams if necessary to reduce bulk.
- Directional Cutting: If your main fabric has a nap or directional pattern, make sure the underlining follows the same direction for consistency.
1. Choose the Right Underlining Fabric
- Select an underlining fabric that complements the weight and drape of your main fabric. For example, silk organza is often used for lightweight fabrics, while cotton muslin can be used for heavier fabrics.
2. Cut the Underlining Fabric
- Lay out your main fabric pattern pieces on the underlining fabric, ensuring that the grainlines match.
- Cut out the underlining fabric exactly the same as your main fabric pieces.
3. Baste the Underlining to the Main Fabric
- Pin the underlining fabric to the corresponding main fabric piece, aligning all edges and notches.
- Hand baste or machine baste the two layers together along the seam allowances. This prevents shifting and ensures that the two layers act as one during construction.
- Baste along the edges and within the main areas of the fabric pieces, depending on the size and complexity of the garment piece.
4. Mark the Fabric
- Transfer any markings from the pattern (like darts, pleats, or notches) to the underlining. The underlining will support these construction details.
5. Sew the Garment Pieces
- Once the main fabric and underlining are basted together, treat them as a single fabric piece.
- Sew the garment according to your pattern instructions. The underlining will add stability and structure without being visible from the outside.
6. Press the Seams
- Press the seams open or to the side as instructed by your pattern. The underlining will help the seams lie flat and maintain the garment’s shape.
7. Finish the Seams
- Depending on your fabric and project, you can finish the seam allowances with a zigzag stitch, serger, or by pinking the edges to prevent fraying.
