Tailoring: Pad Stitching
@officialisot
@bernadettebanner
@Ora_Lin
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Master pad stitching to shape and stabilize jacket lapels, under-collars, and chest pieces for a crisp roll and couture-level tailoring finish.
Materials Needed:
- Hair canvas or hymo interfacing
- Fashion fabric (lapel or collar section)
- Fine tailoring thread (silk or cotton)
- Hand-sewing needles size 8–10
- Beeswax for conditioning thread
- Tailor’s chalk or removable fabric marker
Sharp scissors - Pressing tools: steam iron, tailor’s ham, clapper
Tips Before You Begin:
- Wax and press your thread to prevent tangling and achieve smooth stitches.
- Keep stitches small on the roll line (⅛ in / 3 mm) and slightly larger farther out for natural shaping.
- Work with the fabric over a tailor’s ham to build permanent curve into lapels and under-collars.
- Baste layers together first so nothing shifts while pad stitching.
- Steam-press frequently, then let the piece cool on the ham to “set” the curve before moving on.
1. Mark Guidelines
- Draw parallel rows on the hair canvas, spaced ⅜ in-½ in (1-1.2 cm); angle lines toward the roll so stitches follow the curve.
2. Wax and Thread the Needle
- Run thread through beeswax, press between paper towels, and cut a comfortable 18 in (45 cm) length; knot one end.
3. Secure the Starting Point
- Bring the needle up from the wrong side of the canvas, catching only a couple threads of fashion fabric; pull through until a short length of thread remains or if using a knot, until the knot is buried between layers.
4. Form the Pad Stitch
- Insert the needle diagonally back into the canvas about ⅛ in (3 mm) away, turning the point toward the direction of stitching.
- Scoop a tiny bite of fashion fabric, exit to the right of the original insertion, and gently tug. The fabric should dimple but not pucker.
- Continue along the marked row, keeping stitches even and angled (~45°).
5. Work Subsequent Rows
- Move to the next guideline; stagger stitches so they alternate with the row above like bricks in a wall.
- On the roll line, make stitches shorter and closer together; lengthen them gradually as you work toward the garment edge.
6. Shape with Steam
- After every few rows, steam and mold the piece over a tailor’s ham, pressing the roll into position.
- Let cool completely to lock in the curve before resuming stitching.
7. Finish Off
- At row’s end, pass needle to the canvas wrong side, take a tiny backstitch, and cut the thread.
- Steam-press a final time; use a clapper to flatten seam allowances without crushing the padded roll.
