How to Sew Cargo Pockets
@GloryAllan
@ProfessorPincushion
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to sew cargo pockets that are functional and stylish and add practical storage and a utilitarian look to pants, shorts, jackets, and bags. This guide walks you through creating a classic three-dimensional cargo pocket, complete with a pleat for expansion and a secure flap, ensuring a crisp and durable finish for any project. Perfect for sewists of all levels, this technique will elevate your custom-made garments and accessories.
Materials Needed:
- Main garment or bag project
- Fabric for pocket and flap (match to main project; e.g., cotton twill, canvas, denim, ripstop)
- Light- to medium-weight fusible interfacing for the flap
- Sewing machine and matching heavy-duty thread
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Quilting ruler or seam gauge
- Fabric marking tool (chalk, Frixion pen, or washable marker)
- Pins or clips
- Iron and pressing surface
- Optional: Topstitching thread for a decorative finish
- Optional: Button, snap, or hook-and-loop closure for the flap
Tips for Perfect Cargo Pockets:
- Interface for structure: Always interface the pocket flap for a crisp shape that won’t sag.
- Press every seam: Precise pressing is key to sharp pleats, clean edges, and a professional look.
- Use a topstitching needle: If using thicker topstitching thread, switch to a topstitching needle to prevent skipped stitches.
- Mark placements carefully: Use a ruler and fabric marker to ensure your pockets are level and identically placed on both legs.
- Reinforce corners: Backstitch or use a bar tack stitch at the top corners of the pocket where stress is highest.
- Staystitch curved edges: If your flap has curved corners, staystitching helps maintain the shape when turning.
- Clip corners and curves: Before turning the flap right side out, clip the corners and notch any curves to get sharp points and smooth lines.
1. Cut and Prep Your Pieces
- Cut one pocket piece according to your pattern. Most cargo pockets are rectangles with added seam allowance on the sides and bottom for the 3D effect, and a top hem allowance.
- Cut two flap pieces and one interfacing piece for the flap.
- Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of one flap piece (this will be the upper flap).
2. Create the Pocket Pleat
- Find the center of your pocket piece. Fold and press to create a center line.
- Create the pleat. For a simple box pleat, fold the two outer edges in to meet at the center line, wrong sides together. Press firmly.
- Baste the pleat in place across the top edge of the pocket, within the hem allowance.
3. Hem the Pocket Top
- Fold the top edge of the pocket down twice toward the wrong side to create a clean hem.
- Press well.
- Edgestitch the hem in place.
4. Form the 3D Pocket Sides
- With the pocket wrong side up, fold in and press the side and bottom seam allowances.
- Fold them in again at the pleat depth line (usually 1/2″ or 1″) and press to create the pocket’s dimension. The corners will form mitered folds.
- Refold the mitered corners and stitch them down to secure the shape.
5. Assemble the Pocket Flap
- Place the two flap pieces right sides together.
- Stitch around the two sides and the bottom edge, leaving the top edge open for turning. Use the specified seam allowance.
- Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners to reduce bulk.
- Turn the flap right side out, using a point turner to get sharp corners. Press it flat.
- Topstitch around the sewn edges of the flap for a professional finish.
6. Attach the Pocket to the Garment
- Mark the pocket placement lines on your garment using a fabric marker and ruler.
- Position the finished pocket on the garment, aligning it with your marks. Pin or clip securely in place.
- Topstitch the pocket to the garment along the two sides and the bottom edge, stitching close to the edge.
- Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle stitch or a bar tack for durability.
7. Attach the Flap and Closure
- Position the raw edge of the flap slightly above the top of the pocket opening. The finished side of the flap should be facing the garment.
- Stitch the flap to the garment along its top raw edge.
- Press the flap down over the pocket opening and topstitch along the fold to secure it.
- Install your chosen closure (button, snap, or hook-and-loop tape), attaching one half to the flap and the other to the pocket front.
8. Troubleshooting Common Issues
- Puckered stitching: Use the correct needle size (e.g., 90/14 or denim needle) for heavy fabric and lengthen your stitch for topstitching.
- Uneven pockets: Double-check your placement markings. Measure from a consistent reference point like the waistband or side seam.
- Bulky corners: Trim seam allowances carefully and grade them if necessary, especially on the flap.
More Sewing Techniques!
Top FAQs for this technique:
Medium- to heavy-weight wovens like cotton twill, canvas, denim, corduroy, or ripstop work best as they hold their shape.
The expansion comes from a pleat (box or inverted) down the center and gusset-style sides. The pocket is wider than its final stitched size, and the excess is folded into the pleat.
Lay the pants flat and measure from the side seam and the waistband or hem to mark the top corners of the pocket. Repeat the exact measurements on the other leg.
Stitch a small triangle at the top of each side’s stitching line, or use your machine’s bar tack stitch for maximum durability.