How to Create Eyelets
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to create eyelets for garments, bags, and accessories to add functional reinforced holes for drawstrings, lacing, and decorative details—perfect for beginners and advanced sewists seeking professional finishes on corsets, hoodies, tote bags, and more.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric (woven cotton, denim, canvas, leather, or vinyl)
- Metal eyelets (two-part grommets with washer and shaft; common sizes 1/4 in to 1/2 in)
- Eyelet setter tool kit (includes setter punch and anvil, or hand press tool)
- Hammer (for manual setter) or eyelet press machine (for high-volume or large eyelets)
- Interfacing or stabilizer (medium to heavyweight fusible or sew-in for fabric reinforcement)
- Rotary hole punch, awl, or eyelet hole cutter (sized to match eyelet shaft)
- Cutting mat or protective work surface
- Fabric marking tool (chalk, pen, or template)
- Quilting ruler or measuring tape
- Optional: Seam sealant or fray check for knit or loosely woven fabrics
- Optional: Leather or denim needle if working with heavy materials
Tips for Perfect Eyelets:
- Reinforce first: Always back your fabric with interfacing or a second layer where the eyelet will sit to prevent tearing and fraying.
- Size matters: Match your hole punch size to the eyelet shaft diameter—too small and it won’t fit; too large and the eyelet won’t grip securely.
- Mark accurately: Use a ruler and template to mark eyelet placement evenly, especially for paired eyelets on lacing or functional closures.
- Test on scrap: Practice on fabric scraps with interfacing to confirm correct hole size, tool pressure, and eyelet setting before working on your project.
- Set on a solid surface: Use a hard, stable work surface like a woodblock or dedicated anvil; soft surfaces absorb impact and prevent proper setting.
- One firm strike: For hammer-set eyelets, use one confident strike rather than multiple taps to avoid misalignment or incomplete crimping.
- Check the grip: After setting, flip the fabric and confirm the washer is tightly crimped around the shaft with no gaps or wobble.
- Plan for stress points: Place eyelets at least 1/2 in from fabric edges and reinforce high-stress areas like bag straps or corset panels with additional layers.
1. Choose Your Eyelet Type and Size
- Select metal eyelets (grommets) based on your project: small (1/4 in) for lightweight garments and drawstrings; medium (3/8 in) for hoodies and bags; large (1/2 in and up) for belts, banners, and heavy-duty applications.
- Two-part eyelets consist of a shaft (with a flange on one end) and a washer that crimps over the shaft to sandwich and reinforce the fabric.
- Confirm your eyelet setter tool matches the eyelet size; kits often include multiple setter heads for different diameters.
2. Reinforce the Fabric
- Apply medium to heavyweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric in the eyelet area, or insert a second fabric layer between the main fabric and lining.
- For high-stress areas (corset grommets, bag handles), use two layers of interfacing or add a strip of twill tape or grosgrain ribbon behind the eyelet placement.
- Press firmly to fuse; allow to cool completely before marking.
3. Mark Eyelet Placement
- Use a ruler and fabric marking tool to mark the center point of each eyelet.
- For paired or evenly spaced eyelets (lacing, drawstring casing), create a paper or cardboard template with pre-measured holes and transfer the marks to fabric.
- Common spacing: 3/4 in to 1 in between eyelet centers for garment lacing; 1–2 in for bag drawstrings.
- Mark at least 1/2 in from raw edges to prevent tearing; for hemmed edges, mark on the finished hem or facing.
4. Punch the Hole
- Place the fabric on a cutting mat or protected surface.
- Use a rotary hole punch, awl, or eyelet hole cutter sized for your eyelet shaft (check the eyelet packaging for recommended hole diameter; typically 1/16 in smaller than the outer flange).
- Center the punch on your mark and punch cleanly through all layers.
- Optional: For knit or loosely woven fabrics, apply a tiny drop of fray check or seam sealant to the hole edge and let dry before inserting the eyelet.
5. Insert the Eyelet Shaft
- Separate the eyelet into two parts: the shaft (with flange) and the washer.
- From the right side (front) of the fabric, push the shaft through the punched hole so the flange sits flat against the right side and the shaft protrudes through to the wrong side.
- Slide the washer over the protruding shaft on the wrong side of the fabric; the washer should sit snugly against the wrong side.
6. Set the Eyelet with a Setter Tool and Hammer
- Place the fabric (with eyelet and washer in position) on a hard, flat anvil or the base of your eyelet setter kit, right side down, so the washer is facing up.
- Position the setter punch (the tool with a concave or pointed tip) directly over the center of the eyelet shaft extending through the washer.
- Hold the setter tool perpendicular to the work surface.
- Strike the top of the setter firmly with a hammer in one confident blow; this flares and crimps the shaft over the washer edge, locking the eyelet in place.
- Lift the fabric and check the eyelet: the washer should be tightly crimped with no wobble, and the shaft should be flared evenly around the washer rim.
7. Alternative: Use an Eyelet Press (No-Hammer Method)
- For hand-press or plier-style eyelet tools, insert the shaft and washer as above.
- Place the fabric between the press dies (one die under the flange, one over the washer/shaft).
- Squeeze the press handles firmly to crimp the eyelet; some presses require multiple squeezes or rotating the fabric for even crimping.
- Check for secure attachment before removing from the press..
8. Trim and Finish
- Inspect the eyelet from both sides: the flange should be flush with the right side, and the washer should be smooth and tightly crimped on the wrong side.
- Trim any loose threads or interfacing around the eyelet.
- If adding multiple eyelets, repeat steps 4–7 for each marked hole.
9. Test for Security
- Gently tug on the eyelet to confirm it’s firmly set and the fabric layers are secure.
- Thread your drawstring, lacing, or cord through the eyelet to ensure smooth passage and no snagging.
- For functional closures, test the stress and adjust reinforcement or eyelet size if needed.
10. Troubleshooting Common Issues
- Eyelet won’t stay in place: Hole may be too large; use a smaller punch or add more interfacing for grip.
- Fabric tears around eyelet: Insufficient reinforcement; add additional interfacing or fabric layers before setting.
- Washer not crimped evenly: Setter tool may not be centered or perpendicular; use one firm strike and ensure solid work surface.
- Eyelet tilts or wobbles: Washer wasn’t seated flush before setting; remove and reset with a new eyelet.
- Hole edges fray: Apply fray check or seam sealant before inserting the eyelet, especially on loosely woven or knit fabrics.
More Sewing Techniques!
Top FAQs for this technique:
Eyelets and grommets are often used interchangeably, but technically eyelets are smaller (under 1/2 in) and grommets are larger. Both are two-part metal rings that reinforce fabric holes.
Yes, always reinforce with interfacing or an additional fabric layer to prevent tearing and ensure the eyelet stays secure under stress.
While a setter tool and hammer (or eyelet press) give the most secure and professional results, some craft eyelets can be set with pliers, though they may not hold up to heavy use.
Common causes include insufficient reinforcement, a hole that’s too large for the eyelet shaft, or incomplete crimping during setting. Test on scrap fabric first to dial in your technique.