1. Evaluate and Prepare the Piece

• Inspect the furniture for structural damage, wobbly joints, broken springs, or wood rot; make repairs before reupholstering.
• Decide if you’ll keep or replace the existing padding and whether you need to add springs or webbing support.
• Set up a clean, well-lit workspace with room to flip and access all sides of the furniture.
• Gather all tools and materials so you can work efficiently without interruption.

2. Remove the Old Fabric (Teardown)

• Use a staple remover or flathead screwdriver to lift staples; pull them out with pliers.
• Work systematically from one section to the next (usually start with the underside dust cover, then seat, then back and arms).
• Take photos as each layer is removed and note the order of fabric, batting, and foam.
• Save one piece of old fabric from each section as a template; label with masking tape.
• Remove old tacks, staples, and trim; dispose of torn batting or damaged foam.

3. Assess and Replace Padding

• Check foam for compression, crumbling, or odor; replace if it’s lost its shape or support.
• Measure the seat, back, and arms; cut new upholstery foam to size using an electric carving knife or foam cutter for clean edges.
• Wrap foam with batting (polyester or cotton) to soften edges and prevent fabric from catching on foam texture.
• Secure batting with spray adhesive or a few staples on the underside; smooth wrinkles as you wrap.
• For seat cushions, consider adding a layer of Dacron wrap over foam for a plush, rounded appearance.

4. Cut New Fabric Using Old Pieces as Templates

• Lay old fabric pieces on your new upholstery fabric, aligning grain and any pattern repeat or nap direction.
• Trace around each template, adding 3–6 in on all sides for pull-and-staple allowance.
• Mark the right side of fabric and note any pattern centering or symmetry requirements.
• Cut carefully with sharp fabric scissors or rotary cutter.
• For cushions with zippers or boxing, cut according to pattern measurements and sew covers on the machine before stuffing.

5. Attach Fabric to the Seat (Pull and Staple Method)

• Center the new fabric over the padded seat with right side up; let excess hang over all edges evenly.
• Flip the furniture upside down or on its side to access the underside of the seat frame.
• Starting at the center of the front edge, pull fabric taut (not stretched, just smooth) and place one staple into the frame.
• Move to the center back and pull fabric firmly; staple at center back.
• Repeat for center left and center right, creating an “X” of tension.
• Work outward from each center staple toward the corners, alternating sides and adding staples every 1–2 in.
• Stop about 3 in from each corner to prepare for corner folds.

6. Create Clean Corners

• At each corner, pull fabric straight back and down; you’ll have excess forming a pleat or fold on each side of the corner.
• Decide on folding method: hospital corner (fabric folded in layers like bedding), pleated corner (single or double pleats), or cut-and-overlap (trim excess and overlap for smooth finish).
• Hospital corner: Pull corner fabric taut diagonally; fold one side flat against frame, then fold the other side over it; staple securely.
• Trim any bulky excess fabric inside the fold, leaving enough to prevent fraying.
• Ensure corners are symmetrical on all four seat corners.

7. Upholster the Back and Arms

• Follow the same center-out, opposite-side pulling method for the inside back and inside arms.
• If the piece has a separate back panel, attach inside back first, then outside back as a finishing layer.
• For tight-back chairs (no separate cushion), pull fabric over padding and staple to the back frame rail, keeping tension even.
• Tuck fabric into crevices between seat and back or arms using a upholstery regulator or flathead screwdriver; secure with hidden staples or tack strip.
• On outside arms and back, you may use decorative upholstery tacks, nailhead trim, or gimp to cover staple lines for a polished look.

8. Finish with Dust Cover and Trim

• Cut cambric or black dust cover fabric to fit the underside of the seat, adding 1 in margin.
• Fold raw edges under 1/2 in and staple the dust cover to the bottom frame, concealing all previous staples and raw edges.
• Apply gimp, piping, or decorative nailhead trim along visible seams or edges if desired; use hot glue or upholstery tacks.
• Hand-stitch any blind seams (where two upholstered sections meet with no staple access) using a curved upholstery needle and ladder stitch.

9. Inspect and Final Touches

• Check for wrinkles, loose staples, or uneven tension; make adjustments by removing and re-stapling as needed.
• Trim any loose threads or fabric tails.
• Vacuum the finished piece to remove dust and loose fibers from construction.
• Reattach legs, casters, or decorative elements that were removed during disassembly.

10. Troubleshooting Common Issues

• Wrinkles or puckers: Fabric wasn’t pulled evenly; remove staples in the affected area and re-tension from the center outward.
• Fabric too tight: Over-pulling can distort cushions or crack foam; aim for smooth but not drum-tight tension.
• Visible staples: Use longer upholstery tacks, gimp trim, or a fabric welt to cover staple lines on exposed areas.
• Pattern misalignment: Always center patterns before stapling and check alignment as you work outward.
• Corners too bulky: Trim excess fabric layers inside folds, or switch to a cut-and-overlap corner technique for thick fabrics.