1. Understanding the Difference

• Edgestitching: Stitching very close to an edge, fold, or seam (typically 1/8 in or less from the edge).
• Topstitching: Decorative or functional stitching visible on the right side, usually 1/4 in to 3/8 in from an edge or seam.
• Both techniques add structure, prevent edges from rolling, secure facings, and create professional finishes.

2. Prepare Your Fabric

• Press all seams in the direction specified by your pattern (usually open or to one side).
• For edges that will be topstitched, press hems, facings, or turned edges carefully to create sharp creases.
• If working with lightweight fabric, consider using tear-away stabilizer underneath to prevent puckering.
• Mark any topstitching lines with removable fabric marker if not following an existing seam or edge.

3. Set Up Your Machine for Edgestitching

• Install an edgestitch foot or use your standard presser foot with the needle positioned to the far left or right.
• Thread machine with matching or contrasting thread based on desired look.
• Set stitch length to 2.5–3.0mm for edgestitching.
• Position needle 1/16 to 1/8 in from the edge (use foot guide or move needle position).
• Test on a fabric scrap folded and pressed like your project piece.

4. Edgestitch Technique

• Place fabric right side up under presser foot with edge aligned to your guide.
• Lower presser foot and needle; hold thread tails to prevent tangling at start.
• Begin stitching slowly, keeping the fabric edge consistently aligned with your guide.
• For curves, pause with needle down, lift presser foot, pivot slightly, lower foot, continue.
• At corners, stitch to corner point, leave needle down, lift foot, pivot 90 degrees, lower foot, continue.
• Backstitch or lockstitch at beginning and end, trim threads close to fabric.

5. Set Up Your Machine for Topstitching

• Change to topstitching needle if using heavier thread.
• Thread machine with topstitching thread on top; use regular thread in bobbin or wind bobbin with topstitching thread.
• Increase stitch length to 3.0–3.5mm (or up to 4.0mm for heavy fabrics).
• Slightly increase top tension if using thick topstitching thread (test first).
• Mark or use foot guide for consistent distance (typically 1/4 in or 3/8 in from edge).

6. Topstitch Technique

• Place fabric right side up with edge or seamline aligned to your measurement guide.
• Begin stitching at a less conspicuous spot when possible (side seam rather than center front).
• Maintain consistent speed and keep fabric flat and smooth ahead of the needle.
• For parallel rows of topstitching, use the first row as a guide with your presser foot edge.
• Watch your guide point (foot edge or machine markings) rather than the needle for straighter lines.
• For curves, reduce speed and make micro-adjustments to maintain consistent distance.
• Secure thread ends by backstitching 2–3 stitches or pulling threads to wrong side and tying off.

7. Common Applications

• Shirt collars and cuffs: Edgestitch close to edge, then topstitch 1/4 in from edge.
• Jean hems: Double-fold hem with topstitching at 1/4 in and 1 in from bottom edge.
• Bag straps: Edgestitch both long edges for stability and professional finish.
• Pocket application: Edgestitch sides and bottom, topstitch 1/4 in from top edge.
• Neckline facings: Understitch first, then edgestitch neckline for flat, professional finish.
• Waistbands: Topstitch 1/8 in from top edge and 1/4 in from bottom edge.

8. Troubleshooting Common Issues

• Uneven stitching lines: Use a seam guide, magnetic guide, or specialty foot for consistency.
• Skipped stitches: Change to appropriate needle size, check threading, reduce speed.
• Puckering fabric: Reduce tension, use stabilizer, ensure fabric is flat and supported.
• Thread breaking: Use quality thread, correct needle size, check for burrs on needle or throat plate.
• Wavy topstitching: Press thoroughly first, don’t stretch fabric while sewing, use even feed foot if needed.