How to Sew Darts
@SewEssental
@TillyButtons
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Step-by-Step Instructions:
Sewing darts in a women’s blouse is an essential skill that can help shape the garment to fit the body’s contours more closely.
Common Types of Darts:
- Bust Darts: Found in the front bodice, shaping the fabric around the bust.
- Waist Darts: Vertical darts that shape the waist, found in both the front and back bodice pieces.
- Double-Pointed Darts (Fish Eye Darts): Used in dresses and some blouses, these darts have points at both ends and shape the waist and bust simultaneously.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric
- Pattern with dart markings
- Pins
- Tailor’s chalk or fabric marker
- Measuring tape
- Sewing machine
- Iron
Tips for Perfect Darts:
- Accuracy: Ensure that the dart markings are accurate and that you sew precisely along the lines.
- Gradual Tapering: The transition to the point of the dart should be gradual to avoid puckers.
- Pressing: Proper pressing can make a significant difference in the final appearance of the dart.
1. Transfer Dart Markings to Fabric
- Use tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker to transfer the dart lines from the pattern to the fabric. Mark the dart’s point (apex), and the two dart legs (sides of the dart).
2. Pin the Dart
- Lay out your fabric on a flat surface.
- Place your blouse pattern pieces on the fabric, aligning them according to the grainline.
- Use tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker to transfer the dart lines from the pattern to the fabric. Mark the dart’s point (apex), and the two dart legs (sides of the dart).
3. Sew the Dart
- Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch.
- Begin sewing from the wide end of the dart (where the fabric is folded) towards the point.
- Sew slowly and accurately along the marked line.
- As you approach the point, gradually reduce your stitch length to create a smooth finish and prevent puckering. Some sewists prefer to taper to a very narrow stitch near the dart point.
- Do not backstitch at the point. Instead, leave long thread tails, tie a knot to secure the stitching, and trim the excess threads.
4. Press the Dart
- Pressing is crucial for a neat finish.
- Press the dart flat to set the stitches first.
- Then, press the dart bulk towards the center (for vertical darts) or downward (for horizontal darts).
- Use a pressing ham to help maintain the curve if the dart is on a curved part of the blouse, such as the bust.
5. Check Your Work
- Turn the fabric right side out and check the dart.
- Ensure that the dart lies flat without puckering or pulling.
- Make any necessary adjustments, and re-press if needed.
