Add Seam Allowance
@FreckledCatCreations
@minerva
@letslearntosew
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Many European pattern companies (like Burda) and independent designers draft their patterns exactly to the stitching line, meaning they do not include seam allowances. You must manually add these allowances before cutting your fabric to ensure the garment fits correctly.
Materials Needed:
- Original paper pattern
- Pattern tracing paper (or extra printer paper)
- Clear acrylic ruler or sewing gauge
- Pencil or fine-tip pen
- Paper scissors
Tips for Success:
- Never add seam allowances to edges that say “Cut on Fold”!
- Always use paper scissors to cut out your newly drafted pattern pieces, never your good fabric shears.
1. Check the Pattern Instructions
- Always read the first page of your pattern instructions! It will explicitly state whether seam allowances are included or if you need to add them. If you need to add them, it will usually suggest how much to add (e.g., 5/8″ or 1.5cm).
2. Secure the Pattern
- You can either tape extra paper directly to the edges of your original pattern piece, or you can lay pattern tracing paper over the top of the original and trace the whole thing. (Tracing is recommended so you preserve the original).
3. Mark the Straight Edges
- Take your clear acrylic ruler and align the 5/8″ line (or your desired allowance) directly over the original line of the pattern. Use a pencil to draw a new, parallel line outside the original pattern edge.
4. Mark the Curves
- For curves (like armholes or necklines), use a small sewing gauge or ruler. Pivot the ruler slowly along the curve, making a small pencil dash every half inch to maintain an exact distance from the original line.
5. Connect the Dots & Transfer Marks
- Play connect-the-dots! Use a French curve tool or gently freehand a smooth, continuous line connecting all your dashes. Crucially, extend any pattern markings (like notches or drill holes) out to your new cutting line so you don’t lose them.
6. Cut the New Piece
- Grab your paper scissors and cut along your newly drawn outer line. You now have a complete pattern piece with seam allowances built in, ready to be pinned to your fabric.
Top FAQs for Adding Seam Allowances:
How do I know if my pattern includes seam allowances? +
Always read the pattern envelope and the first page of the instruction booklet. It will clearly state “Seam allowances are included” or “Seam allowances are NOT included.” If it says they aren’t, you must add them yourself.
Why do some companies not include seam allowances? +
Drafting without seam allowances is common in European patternmaking (like Burda Style). It makes it much easier to alter the pattern for a custom fit, blend between sizes, and measure the exact finished dimensions of the garment before cutting.
How much seam allowance should I add? +
For general garment construction, add 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) to main seams like side seams and shoulders. Add 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch for enclosed curves (like necklines and armholes). Add 1.5 inches to 2 inches for bottom hems.
Do I add seam allowance to the “Cut on Fold” edge? +
No! You should never add a seam allowance to a fold line. Doing so will add extra inches of unwanted width to the center front or center back of your garment.
Can I just eyeball it with my scissors while cutting the fabric? +
It is highly discouraged, especially for beginners. Accurate seam allowances are crucial for a garment to fit together properly. Eyeballing it often leads to wonky seams, mismatched lengths, and distorted curves.
Should I add the allowance to the paper or draw it on the fabric? +
Adding it to the paper pattern is highly recommended because you only have to do the math once, and your pattern piece is permanently ready for future use. However, you can use tailor’s chalk to trace the allowance directly onto your fabric if you prefer.
