Bra Construction
@KimDave
@Fit2Sew
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to construct bras and lingerie using underwire channeling and power mesh to create supportive, high-quality intimate garments with a professional finish.
Materials Needed:
- Bra sewing pattern (with underwire support)
- Underwire channeling (nylon or plush-backed)
- Underwires (size matched to your pattern)
- Power mesh or power net fabric
- Stretch lace or other decorative fabric (optional)
- Lingerie elastic (picot, fold-over, or plush back)
- Bra clasp
- Rings and sliders for straps
- Sewing machine with a stretch or ballpoint needle
- Zigzag stitch capability or three-step zigzag stitch
- Thread to match fabric
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Pins or clips
- Tailor’s chalk or marking pen
Tips Before You Begin:
- Power mesh stretches more in one direction; always align it correctly based on your pattern.
- Use a walking foot or a Teflon foot if your machine struggles with stretchy or slippery materials.
- Test your stitch settings on scraps before sewing your main pieces.
- Consider stabilizing areas like the cradle with a layer of sheer cup lining for added support.
1. Cut Your Fabric Pieces
- Lay out all pattern pieces on your chosen fabrics, matching stretch direction as indicated.
- Cut outer fabric for cups and bridge, and power mesh for the wings/back band.
- Cut matching pieces of lining or stabilizer if included in your pattern.
2. Assemble Bra Cups
- Sew together the cup pieces according to the pattern instructions.
- Use a zigzag stitch or three-step zigzag for flexibility.
- Press seams open or to one side and topstitch for a clean finish and durability.
3. Attach Cups to Frame
- Sew the assembled cups into the bra cradle or frame.
- Match notches and curve edges carefully for an accurate fit.
4. Insert Underwire Channeling
- Position the underwire channeling along the seam allowance where the cup meets the frame.
- Sew the first pass of stitching on the inside edge of the channeling.
- Insert the correct size underwire into the channel.
- Sew a second row of stitching on the outer edge of the channel to encase the wire fully and secure it in place.
5. Assemble the Band with Power Mesh
- Attach the power mesh side/back bands to the cradle.
- Use a zigzag stitch for stretch retention and durability.
- Reinforce the seam if needed with a second line of stitching.
6. Add Elastic to the Band
- Sew plush-back or picot elastic to the lower edge of the bra band using a zigzag stitch.
- Slightly stretch the elastic as you sew for a snug fit.
- Repeat for the top edge of the band if required by your pattern.
7. Sew the Straps
- Cut straps to the desired length.
- Attach sliders and rings to allow adjustability.
- Sew the straps to the front of the cups and loop through rings on the back band.
8. Attach Hook and Eye Closure
- Sew the hook side of the clasp to the left side of the back band and the eye side to the right.
- Ensure secure stitching, especially at stress points.
9. Final Topstitching and Trimming
- Trim any loose threads.
- Add any decorative topstitching if desired.
- Give the bra a final press with low heat if needed (avoid pressing the underwire area directly).
