How to Sew a French Seam
@gloryallan
@SimplicityVideo
@TillyButtons
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to sew a French seam—a sewing technique that encloses raw edges inside the seam—perfect for lightweight or sheer fabrics and creating garments with a polished, couture-level finish.
Materials Needed:
- Two pieces of lightweight woven fabric (cotton voile, chiffon, silk, etc.)
- Sewing machine
- Matching thread
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Ruler or seam gauge
- Pins or fabric clips
- Iron and pressing surface
Tips Before You Begin:
- This technique is best suited for lightweight or sheer fabrics; it reduces fraying and creates an elegant, enclosed finish.
- Use a shorter stitch length (2.0–2.5 mm) for added durability and a neat appearance.
- Always press between steps—a well-pressed French seam looks far more professional.
- When working with directional prints or patterns, consider how the two-step construction may affect alignment.
1. Sew the First Seam with Wrong Sides Together
- Place your fabric pieces with the wrong sides facing each other—this is opposite of traditional seam construction.
- Align the edges and pin or clip them in place.
Sew a straight seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance. - Trim the seam allowance down to ⅛ inch to reduce bulk and fraying.
2. Press the Seam Flat and Fold Right Sides Together
- Open the fabric and press the seam allowance to one side.
- Then fold the fabric with right sides together, encasing the raw edges inside the fold.
- Press the folded edge to create a crisp line for the next seam.
3. Sew the Final Seam to Enclose the Raw Edge
- Pin the folded edge in place to prevent shifting.
- Sew a second seam using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, enclosing the raw edge completely.
- Press the finished French seam flat to one side for a clean, polished appearance.
