How to Topstitch and Edgestitch
@SimplicityVideo
@Jann Newton
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Topstitching and edgestitching are visible seams sewn on the right side of a garment. They serve a dual purpose: structurally, they force seams to lay flat and prevent facings from rolling outward; visually, they add a crisp, professional, and decorative finish to your project.
Materials Needed:
- Sewing machine
- Standard thread or thick topstitching thread
- Iron and pressing mat
- Edge-joining foot or blind hem foot (optional but recommended)
Tips for Success:
- Because these stitches are highly visible, slow down! A wobbly topstitch will immediately draw the eye.
- Use a slightly longer stitch length (3.0mm to 3.5mm) for a smoother, more deliberate and professional appearance.
1. Understand Edgestitching
- Edgestitching is sewn extremely close to the seam line or folded edge—usually a scant 1/16 to 1/8 inch away. It is often used to anchor necklines, pockets, or waistbands so the fabric doesn’t roll or shift.
2. Understand Topstitching
- Topstitching is sewn further away from the seam or edge—typically 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch. It is often used decoratively on denim, bags, or tailored garments to emphasize the structural lines of the piece.
3. Press Thoroughly
- You cannot get a straight topstitch over a lumpy seam. Press your seam thoroughly with steam. If you are topstitching over a seam allowance, make sure the allowance is pressed to the correct side underneath the fabric so your needle actually catches it.
4. Choose the Right Foot
- For perfect accuracy, attach an edge-joining foot or a blind hem foot. These feet have a prominent metal blade that rides inside the ditch of a seam or against the folded edge of the fabric, keeping your stitch line perfectly parallel.
5. Adjust the Needle Position
- Place the metal guide of the presser foot against your fabric edge or seam line. Use your machine’s needle position settings to move the needle left or right until it hits the exact distance you want (1/16″ for edgestitching, or 1/4″ for topstitching).
6. Sew and Tie Off
- Sew slowly, keeping your eyes completely focused on the metal guide. When you start and stop, do not backstitch. A bulky backstitch ruins the clean look of the line. Instead, leave long thread tails, pull the top thread to the back of the fabric, and tie them together in a manual knot.
Top FAQs for Topstitching & Edgestitching:
What is the exact difference between topstitching and edgestitching? +
The only difference is the distance from the seam or edge. Edgestitching is sewn very close to the edge (1/16″ to 1/8″ away). Topstitching is sewn further in (1/4″ or more) and is often more decorative.
Should I use a different thread for topstitching? +
You can use standard thread, but many sewists prefer dedicated “Topstitching Thread.” This thread is significantly thicker and stands out beautifully (think of the gold stitching on blue jeans). If you use thick topstitching thread on the top spool, leave regular, thin thread in the bobbin to prevent tension issues.
Why does my fabric pucker when I topstitch? +
Puckering happens if your stitch length is too short or your top tension is too tight. Always increase your stitch length to at least 3.0mm or 3.5mm when sewing visible topstitching to allow the fabric to lay flat.
What presser foot is best for edgestitching? +
An Edge-Joining foot or an Edgestitch foot is ideal. They feature a vertical metal blade that rides perfectly along the edge of your fabric. If you don’t have one, you can use a Blind Hem foot or simply line up the inner toe of your standard presser foot.
Do I need to backstitch when topstitching? +
It is highly recommended that you do not backstitch. A backstitch creates a thick, messy knot of thread on the front of the garment. Instead, pull the project off the machine, tug the top thread to the back side of the fabric, and tie the two tails in a knot by hand.
Can I do a double row of topstitching? +
Yes, this is very common on denim or bags! The easiest way is to sew your edgestitch first (1/8″ away). Then, line up the right edge of your standard presser foot with the edgestitch line you just sewed, and sew a second line. They will be perfectly parallel.
