Frankie Shirt 
Omnigrid Square Ruler Template - 6" x 6" 
Longarm Quilting Preparation
@Ma Tante Quilting
@Fat Quarter Shop
@Quite Clever Quilting
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Sending your beautiful quilt top to a professional longarmer is exciting! However, proper preparation is key. A well-prepared quilt top prevents puckers, guarantees the design aligns correctly, and saves you from extra preparation fees.
Materials Needed:
- Completed quilt top
- Backing fabric (appropriately sized)
- Iron and pressing mat
- Small thread snips
- Safety pins and a scrap of paper
Tips for Success:
- DO NOT baste your quilt! Longarmers load the top, batting, and backing independently onto rollers.
- Always check with your specific longarmer for their unique requirements (especially regarding batting) before shipping your quilt.
1. Press the Quilt Top
- Thoroughly iron your entire quilt top. Ensure all seams are pressed completely flat (either open or to one side). Bulky or folded seams can cause the longarm’s hopping foot to catch, which can rip the fabric or break needles.
2. Snip Loose Threads
- Flip your quilt top over and trim away any long, loose threads. Dark threads left on the back can “shadow” or show through light-colored fabrics on the front of the quilt once it is quilted.
3. Square Up the Top and Backing
- Use a rotary cutter and ruler to ensure the edges of your quilt top and backing are straight and square. Uneven, wavy edges make it incredibly difficult for the longarmer to load the quilt straight onto the frame.
4. Size the Backing Fabric
- Your backing fabric must be significantly larger than your quilt top. The industry standard is an extra 4 inches on all four sides. This means if your quilt top is 60″ x 60″, your backing must be at least 68″ x 68″. This extra fabric is required to attach the quilt to the longarm rollers.
5. Press and Prep the Backing
- Press your backing fabric completely flat. If you had to piece your backing together, press that seam open to reduce bulk, and trim the selvedge edges out of the seam allowance to prevent stiffness.
6. Mark the “Top” Edge
- If your quilt top or backing fabric is directional (meaning it has a specific ‘up’ and ‘down’), write “TOP” on a small scrap of paper and safety-pin it to the top edge of both the quilt top and the backing. Keep the layers folded separately; do not pin them together!
Top FAQs for Longarm Preparation:
Do I need to baste my quilt before sending it to a longarmer? +
Absolutely not! In fact, basting it will cost you extra money because the longarmer will have to undo it. Longarm machines use a system of rollers that require the backing, batting, and quilt top to be loaded completely separate from one another.
How much extra backing fabric do I need? +
Most longarmers require the backing to be 4 inches larger on every single side. This means adding a total of 8 inches to the width and 8 inches to the length of your quilt top measurements. This gives them enough fabric to clamp and roll onto the machine frames.
Should I press my seams open or to the side? +
For the quilt top, you can use whichever piecing method you prefer, as long as the seams are pressed incredibly flat. However, if you have to piece your backing fabric, it is highly recommended to press that large seam completely open to reduce bulk on the rollers.
What happens if I leave loose threads on the back of my quilt top? +
Two things can happen: First, loose threads can get caught in the fast-moving hopping foot of the longarm, causing tangles. Second, if you have dark thread tails behind white or light fabric, they will be permanently visible (“shadowing”) through the front of the quilt once it’s quilted.
Do I need to provide the batting? +
This depends on the longarmer. Many prefer that you buy batting directly from them, as they keep large, high-quality rolls perfectly suited for their specific machine. Always check with your longarmer before purchasing and shipping your own batting.
Can my backing have a seam in it? +
Yes, pieced backings are very common! To ensure it rolls smoothly on the frame, trim the selvedges off the seam, press the seam open, and (if possible) orient the seam horizontally so it runs parallel to the longarm rollers.
