Pick Stitch
(The Hallmark of High-End Tailoring)
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Step-by-Step Instructions:
The pick stitch (also known as a prick stitch) is a decorative, hand-sewn backstitch used on the lapels, collars, and edges of tailored jackets. It keeps the facings sharply in place while serving as a subtle sign of custom, high-end tailoring.
Materials Needed:
- Silk buttonhole twist or heavy topstitching thread
- Sharp hand sewing needle (size 7 or 8)
- Beeswax (optional, for thread conditioning)
- Thimble
- Tailor’s chalk or a disappearing marking pen
Tips for Success:
- Run your thread through beeswax and press it with a warm iron before sewing to prevent tangling.
- Only catch one or two threads of the top fabric for each stitch.
- Consistency in stitch spacing is much more important than speed!
1. Thread and Knot
- Thread your needle with a single strand of heavy silk or topstitching thread. Tie a knot and hide it between the fabric layers at the start of your edge (often at the bottom of the lapel or behind the collar).
2. Bring the Needle Up
- Bring the needle up through the top layer of fabric. This is usually done right on the edge of the garment, or about 1/4 inch inset from the edge depending on your desired look.
3. The “Pick”
- Take a tiny, almost invisible stitch backward (literally picking up just 1 to 2 threads of the fabric). Angle the needle forward, sliding it between the fabric layers to your next stitch point (usually 1/4 to 3/8 inch ahead).
4. Pull and Tension
- Pull the thread completely through. The tension should be firm enough to “bed” the thread slightly into the fabric, making a tiny indentation, but not so tight that it causes the edge to pucker.
5. Repeat for Consistency
- Repeat this process along the entire edge. The top of the fabric will show tiny “pricks” or dots of thread, while the length of the thread travels completely hidden between the layers.
Top FAQs for the Pick Stitch:
Can I do a pick stitch on a sewing machine? +
Some high-end sewing machines have a specialized “hand-look” quilt or pick stitch function. However, true bespoke tailoring relies entirely on the slight, beautiful, human irregularities of a hand-sewn pick stitch.
Do I sew through all the layers of the jacket? +
Usually, no. You only want to sew through the top fabric and the internal interfacing, leaving the facing/under-layer untouched so the stitches do not show on the back. However, on the very edge of lapels, it occasionally goes through all layers.
What kind of thread is best? +
Silk buttonhole twist is the traditional and preferred choice because of its incredible strength, smooth finish, and subtle sheen. If you cannot find silk twist, a heavy-duty polyester topstitching thread makes a great modern alternative.
